Nour has long been commended for its elevation of Middle Eastern cuisine, interpreting the cacophony of flavours the region is known for through a contemporary gastronomic lens within its pastel-toned walls. After four years as executive chef, Paul Farag passes the wooden spoon to Ibrahim Kasif, former owner and head chef of hatted Turkish restaurant Stanbuli.
There’s always a sense of trepidation that accompanies a new head chef at a much beloved institution. Having previously enjoyed exemplary dining experiences at Nour under Farag’s tenure, it’s safe to say Kasif carries on the torch when it comes to execution, however is undeniably steering the Surry Hills outpost into new territory.
Bringing with him an entirely new menu, Kasif’s vision for Nour takes on a fine-casual approach, with large-scale shared dishes eschewed in favour of small, flavour-packed dishes that see Lebanese and Middle Eastern flavours harmonise with local produce.
The woodfired halloumi with black olives and pickled celery is one of the best takes on the squeaky cheese we’ve tried; smoked to perfection, with the chewy texture of the cheese complemented by sizzling hot honeyed lemon and olive oil dressing and tempered with saltiness from the olives. The woodfired eggplant is a close contender; charred until the inside is almost gooey and designed to be muddled with filfil chouma, a Libyan bell pepper and paprika sauce that brings the heat thanks to the addition of cayenne pepper.
Related: Good Vibes & Even Better Food; Our Favourite Casual Restaurants In Sydney
Kasif’s flair for creating nuanced, saporous dishes is evident in the almost meaty woodfired (the technique features heavily across the menu) mushrooms which are lent a touch of sweetness from charred leeks which palliates the spiciness of the walnut muhammara. The mountain salad is a delightful supporting dish, abjuring a leafy approach in favour of a dense combination of walnuts, pistachios, pomegranate seeds, cherry tomatoes, and green olives tossed with an abundance of herbs and finished with olive oil and a zesty, piquant dressing.
The dining experience at Nour is rounded out by a dessert menu laden with heavy hitters. Simultaneously familiar and decidedly different, the menu riffs on Lebanese and Middle Eastern signatures until they’re almost unrecognisable. The tahini parfait sees the sesame seed paste ensconced in baklava-style pastry and topped with mastic cream to create a slightly sweet, earthy dessert that melds the palate of halva with the textural elements of baklava. The sekerpare, a rosewater-soaked cookie, adds depth to the classic Turkish dessert by pairing it with zesty flavours of passionfruit and lemon curd. However, the woodfired coconut basbousa is the star of the show, transforming the semolina cake into a lusciously sticky hot dessert that has just the right amount of sweetness.
Nour is open for dinner seven days a week, with lunch from Thursday to Sunday.
Address: Shop 3, 490 Crown Street, Surry Hills, NSW, Australia
Words by T. Angel
Photography courtesy of Jiwon Kim
