Paying homage to the inextricable ties between American history and Black history, Ralph Lauren has unveiled a capsule of collegiate Americana staples in collaboration with two HBCUs, Morehouse College and Spelman college. The co-ed collection draws from the rich heritage and esteemed traditions of both schools, representing the first time in the brand’s 50-year history that Ralph Lauren has partnered with a university. While Ralph Lauren is famed for its preppy collegiate sensibility, thus far the brand hasn’t depicted the nature of life at historical Black collages and universities, something it’s now looking to change.
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“This collection expresses the spirited history, deep sense of community and legacy of timeless dressing at historically Black colleges and universities,” said Ralph Lauren, Executive Chairman and Chief Creative Officer of Ralph Lauren Corporation. “It’s so much more than a portrayal of a collegiate design sensibility. It’s about sharing a more complete and authentic portrait of American style and of the American dream — ensuring stories of Black life and experiences are embedded in the inspiration and aspiration of our brand.”
Conceptualised and designed by Morehouse and Spelman alumni at Ralph Lauren, the collection signals the first time the brand has produced a campaign with an all-Black cast, extending to its photographer, creative directors, and cinematographer, in addition to the cast of models, the latter of whom are largely students and faculty at both institutions. Shot by internationally renowned photographer Nadine Ijewere, the campaign takes on a nostalgic tone, showcasing the life at HBCUs in the early to mid 1900s.
Incorporating the sartorial traditions and history of both schools and imbuing them with Ralph Lauren’s signature tailoring, the collection seeks to expand the collegiate sensibility inherent within the brand’s identity. White patchwork eyelet and silk wrap dresses anchor the Spelman collection, symbolising the highly anticipated white attire ceremony, which marks students’ induction into the college. Meanwhile, the wool flannel blazer serves as an homage to the Morehouse blazer, a garment traditionally bestowed to students during their first days on campus. The full collection references styles worn by Morehouse and Spelman students from the 1920s to 1950s and comprises outerwear, knits, tailored suits, dresses, footwear, and accessories.
Although the collection is not without its detractors, it’s in line the series of commitments Ralph Lauren made in 2020 to take action regarding racial equity and reassess how the company as a whole portrays the American dream and depicts Americana on a global scale. As part of these commitments, the Ralph Lauren Corporate Foundation pledged $2 million to support scholarships for students at both Morehouse and Spelman Collages, as well as an additional 10 HBCUs through the United Negro College Fund in December 2021.
Despite some seeing the collection as pandering, it does what the household name hasn’t done before; recognise the rich legacies of Black excellence as inextricably linked with American history.
The Ralph Lauren HBCU capsule will be available via the Ralph Lauren webstore from the 29th March onwards.
Words by AR Staff
Images courtesy of Nadine Ijewere for Ralph Lauren
