As with many brands of late, Chanel continues to create garments for the youth, looking to the past to inform the present. An homage to the inimitable friendship between Gabrielle Chanel and Jean Cocteau, the Chanel Cruise 21/22 collection explores Cocteau’s film Testament of Orpheus. Taking place at the Carrières de Lumières, Les Baux-de-Provence, the collection was expressed through pared-back clean lines and a two-toned black and white colour scheme.
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“Because Gabrielle Chanel was close to Cocteau, and I love the film Testament of Orpheus,” Virginie Viard, creative director at Chanel, said of the inspiration behind the collection. “In particular this magnificent scene: a man with a black horse’s head descends into the Carrières de Lumières, his silhouette cut out against the very white walls.”
Laden with symbolism, the Chanel Cruise 21/22 collection infused the Chanel DNA with a healthy dose of punk. Opening with clean, crisp classic tailored wear in black and white, Chanel Cruise 21/22 collection swiftly descends into catering to the gen Z market, with frayed hemlines, fringed leather, an abundance of fishnet tights, slips layered over t-shirts and tops, a particularly witchy two-piece set, and some vampiric looks to round it off. Despite the Cocteau and punk references cited, the style of the latter looks appears to have been directly lifted from the witch side of TikTok.
Symbols of Chanel in the form of lions, female sphinxes, and deer appear, along with other House symbols, printed on a long pink and black crêpe negligee-style dress. Remaining largely monochrome, a hint of colour popped out here and there, scattered throughout tweed and appearing as floral embroidery.
“Echoing the extreme modernity of Cocteau’s film, I wanted something quite rock. Lots of fringes, in leather, beads and sequins, t-shirts bearing the face of the model Lola Nicon like a rockstar, worn with tweed suits trimmed with wide braids, and pointed silver Mary-Janes,” said Viard. “A look that recalls as much the modernity of the sixties as that of punk…”
In terms of accessories, Viard provides them in the form of fringed leather bags, studded clutches, and an abundance of chain belts along with a smattering of costume jewellery. White mod boots feature heavily throughout the collection, balanced out by patent leather boots, metallic, mary janes, and two-toned black and white brogues.
Words by AR Staff
