Tweed is almost synonymous with Chanel, with the material inextricably linked to the luxury French fashion house. While the fabric has remained with the house for over a decade, each show invariably sees it reimagined.
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The theme for Chanel Fall/Winter Haute Couture 22/23 can be best — but somewhat clunkily — described as ‘abstract equestrian chic’. Taking place in the Étrier de Paris equestrian centre with a fantastical set designed by French installation artist Xavier Veilhan, models sport demure tweed skirt suit sets accompanied by wide-brim hats and cowboy boots while traversing a veritable playground of arches, bubblegum pink poufs, mobiles, and targets. Opening the show is a trippy short film featuring Pharrell playing the drums accompanied by music by French artist Sébastian Teller.
“In this new collection, there are suits, long dresses like Mademoiselle Chanel imagined them in the 1930s: fitted to the body even though they have strong shoulders here, and pleated dresses like the wedding dress for instance,” said Virginie Viard, creative director of Chanel. “And lace too, inlaid, reworked, not embroidered, but repainted. The palette consists of bright green, khaki, beige, pink, and lots of black and silver.”
Nods to the 1930s appear in the form of round shoulders, square backs, and geometric embroidery, with graphics incorporated in an understated yet effortless way that remains wearable. “I also like to break the graphic approach with a natural look. The clothes remain light, feminine, designed to be worn. I can’t see myself doing it any other way.”
Words by AR Staff
