Creative director Daniel Roseberry continues to carve out a new path for Schiaparelli while remaining true to the design codes set by eponymous founder Elsa Schiaparelli. Marking Roseberry’s fourth couture collection, Schiaparelli Fall 2021 Couture works to shun formulaic approaches to fashion, instead proposing a collection built on beauty, romance, edge, and just a touch of earnestness.
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Presented in three parts, Schiaparelli Fall 2021 Couture is referential without being overly reverent; paying homage to Elsa while continuing to redefine notions of couture. The first part serves as a tribute to the iconic Schiaparelli jacket, with an emphasis on structural lines, barrel sleeves, and archival golden threads. Meanwhile, a black wool-crepe curved sleeve jacket embroidered with shell-pink roses pays direct homage to a collaboration between Jean Cocteau and Schiaparelli in 1937.
The second part of the collection explores the dialogue between the body and bijoux, with hard and soft, machine and human, and metal and fabric engaging in sartorial conversation. Human lungs are crafted from a web of golden branches, set atop a serve structured black crepe gown; elements of the human body like eyes, stomach, and lips are hand-patinated in gold; and breasts are encased in metal moldings. Finally, a vibrant explosion of colour arises, with cornflower blues, salmony pinks, and terracotta oranges complementing their dramatic silhouettes.
“My fourth couture collection, “The Matador”: A collection that honors Elsa’s vision but isn’t in thrall to it,” explained Daniel Roseberry. “If last season was about deconstruction, about pushing past the boundaries of what couture was, about trying to upend all its unspoken rules, about doing things we weren’t “supposed” to do, this season, I felt the freedom to make something fiercely, undeniably, unapologetically pretty—because sometimes you have to rebel against beauty in order to return to it.”
Words by AR Staff
