With the largest concentration of wineries and cellar doors in New South Wales, the drive from Sydney to the Hunter Valley is not what you’d consider when looking to take the road less travelled. However, it’s still possible to experience the Hunter Valley sans crowds. While viticulture enthusiasts and casual imbibers alike flock to Pokolbin for a taste of some of the country’s finest wine, there’s a lesser-visited part of the Hunter Valley a stone’s throw away. Sharing the same provenance is the region of Broke Fordwich.
Located in the lower Hunter Valley, Broke Fordwich is Australia’s oldest wine country and boasts several viable wineries within a few minutes drive of each other — many with a sustainable bent. The tranquil town is tucked away into the foothills of the Brokenback Mountain Range (not to be confused with the fictional Brokeback Mountain, which was in Wyoming) and is backdropped by the beautiful Yellow Rock escarpment.
In a bid to get away from the city and savour a taste of wine country—without jostling with other imbibers for standing room—we headed for the Broke Fordwich region of NSW’s Hunter Valley.
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The car
A smooth drive and ample space (necessary for stocking up on wine to take home) were front of mind when selecting a car for our road trip to the Hunter Valley’s Broke Fordwich region. With that in mind, we opted to take the Chery Tiggo 8 Pro Max, a three-row seven-seater SUV (the back two seats can be collapsed for more storage space). Proving luxury and cost-effectiveness can indeed co-exist, the Chery Tiggo 8 Pro Max is one of the most affordable seven-seater SUVs in Australia, priced from just $41,990AUD to $47,990AUD for the flagship Ultimate model we drove.
From the outside, the Tiggo 8 Pro Max’s diamond-shaped front grille, 19-inch alloy wheels (on the Ultimate AWD model), and unique tail light design make it a dynamic presence on the road.
The (scenic) drive from Sydney to Broke Fordwich is just under 200 kilometres, with the Tiggo 8 Pro Max handling it with ease. Under the hood, the 2.0L turbocharged engine delivers 200 bhp and 277 ft lb of torque, which, coupled with the Tiggo 8 Pro Max’s soft ride quality and light steering, make for an SUV that’s not only functional but fun to drive. Three distinct driving modes—Eco, Normal, and Sport—slightly alter throttle response. While Eco is the practical mode of choice for city driving, Sport was our choice on the open road.
As we exited the city, features like traffic jam assist and blind spot detection made it easy to safely change lanes and maneuver the sizable bulk of the Tiggo 8 Pro Max through tight spots with ease. Once we hit the highway, adaptive cruise control came in handy for maintaining a constant speed, with the car automatically detecting changes in the speed limit and prompting you to adjust your settings.
The interior is where the Tiggo 8 Pro Max punches well above its price point. The Ultimate variant we drove was fitted with diamond-stitched brown synthetic leather upholstery (we found the synthetic leather almost indistinguishable from the real thing) which gave it an elevated aesthetic, while details like driver’s seat position memory and ambient lighting contributed to the luxurious drive quality.
Almost every time we got back into the Tiggo 8 Pro Max, we commented on how it managed to retain that just-out-of-the-dealership new car smell, however it wasn’t until a couple of days in that we discovered it has a built-in interior fragrance system with three scents. Driving along the tree-lined roads of the Hunter Valley, the panoramic sunroof was our favourite feature and made for an undeniably enjoyable ride.
Easy to operate and streamlined yet spacious inside, the Chery Tiggo 8 Pro Max proved a comfortable and elevated driving experience that didn’t skimp on practicality.
The drive
The Pacific Highway (M1) connects Sydney to the Hunter Valley and offers and gets you to Pokolbin (and the aforementioned crowds!) in a couple of hours — this is the most commonly recommended route.
However, we’ll always choose the scenic route. As we’re heading to Broke Fordwich, bypass the standard thoroughfares of Cessnock and Pokolbin altogether, by taking the Peats Ridge exit off the Pacific Highway (M1). This will get you onto Tourist Drive 33; quite literally the road less travelled, this motorway snakes through the Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park and is bordered by lush bushland and sandstone walls.
Before you hit Peats Ridge, stop off at Glenworth Valley and check out the Glenworth Valley Lookout, which captures breathtaking panoramic views of the valley beyond and also serves as a popular wedding spot. Horse girls and boys in the mood for an equine detour can also book a horse riding session with Glenworth Valley Wilderness Adventures, which offers an immersive way to enjoy the natural beauty of the valley.
Stop at the quaint Laguna Trading Post for brunch and to peruse the selection of local wine. If you’re driving an electric vehicle, there’s also a handy charger out front which you can use while you dine. Pick up some provisions from the Laguna Village Providore just opposite; there’s a sizable selection of fresh fruit and vegetables, cheeses, confectionery, and snacks—all locally sourced—as well as some pantry staples.
Once your appetite has been sated, continue towards the historic town of Wollombi. Named after an Aboriginal word that means ‘meeting place of the waters’, Wollombi is a culturally and historically significant town that has preserved its colonial history. The neighbouring region, including parts of the Yengo National Park, is also home to several significant Aboriginal sites.
Pay a visit to Wollombi General Store. Located in an original 1860s building, it has retained its original aesthetic and sells gelato in addition to a selection of locally made jams, oils, honey, and relishes. Nearby, you’ll also find the gothic style St Johns Anglican Church and the Former Overland Telegraph Office, both of which are part of the town’s historical walk.
Then, head to the Finchley Trig lookout. Located in Yengo National Park, it offers views over the wilderness. Right next to it are the Finchley Aboriginal engravings, one of the most well preserved Aboriginal engraving sites in the country. There are signs along the way which offer an insight into the Aboriginal culture of the area.
Once you’ve had your culture fix, continue along the tree-lined Tourist Drive 33 for 20 minutes until you reach Broke Fordwich.
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Where to stay in Broke Fordwich
Winmark Wines
Wine and art collide at Winmark Wines, which offers a unique vineyard stay complete with a large-scale sculpture walk and on-site art gallery. Four varied accommodation typologies cater to every type of traveller; Mio Monte promises “Australian architecture with a Tuscan twist” and sleeps up to 14 guests, while the newest addition, Villa Vino, is an intimate tiny house style retreat for two.
Price: from $330AUD/night
Address: 229 Wollombi Rd, Broke, NSW, Australia
Explore and book accomodation at Winmark Wines here.
Arenridge
Set on a private vineyard, this sprawling homestead is perfect for larger groups. The open-plan space prioritises indoor-outdoor living and looks out toward the mountain range, with a swimming pool to cool off in during the warmer months. Spanning six bedrooms and three bathrooms, it sleeps up to 12 guests and is ideally placed to explore nearby wineries like Krinklewood Biodynamic Vineyard, Margan Estate, and Winmark Wines.
Price: from $1350AUD/night (minimum two nights)
Address: 40 Rodd St, Broke, NSW, Australia
Explore and book Arenridge here.
Starline Alpacas
Animal lovers will appreciate a stay at Starline Alpacas. The working alpaca farm is surrounded by the Brokenback mountain range and the picturesque Yengo-Wollemi National Park and contains a variety of self-contained cottage configurations suitable for couples and groups of up to eight people.
Price: from $275AUD/night (minimum two nights)
Address: 1100 Milbrodale Road, Broke, NSW, Australia
Explore and book Starline Alpacas here.
Talits Estate
Designed as a replica of a chateau in Aix-En-Provence, this provençal farmhouse transports you to the south of France. Situated on an acreage, the farmhouse is surrounded by Pinot Noir, Merlot, Syrah and Chardonnay vines; olive trees; farm animals; and manicured gardens, and is complete with a private swimming pool for guest use. With four bedrooms (and two additional sofa bed options) and five bathrooms, the farmhouse can accommodate up to 10 guests.
Price: from $1680AUD/night (minimum two nights)
Address: 722 Milbrodale Rd, Fordwich, NSW, Australia
Explore and book Talits Estate here.
Krinklewood Estate
Another winery with a provençal aesthetic (what can we say, we have a type), Krinklewood Estate has three accommodation offerings with two distinct architectural typologies on its European style grounds. There’s a self-contained French colonial farmhouse that sleeps up to eight, as well as two eco-friendly prefabricated Dimensions X—a startup by Krinklewood owner Oscar Martin and Australian architect Peter Stutchbury—smart homes. Backdropped by the mountain range, both modular houses (one sleeps four and the other two) prioritise an indoor-outdoor connection with floor-to-ceiling openings that make the most of their surroundings.
Price: from $600AUD/night
Address: 712 Wollombi Rd, Broke, NSW, Australia
Explore and book Krinklewood Estate here.
Where to dine in Broke Fordwich
Margan Wines & Restaurant
The small town of Broke Fordwich is home to the hatted Margan Wines & Restaurant. The restaurant features a farm-to-fork tasting menu for lunch and dinner, showcasing produce grown on the estate and sourced from local providores. For something more casual, take a tour of the vineyard before settling in for a wine tasting accompanied by a cheese or charcuterie board.
Address: 1238 Milbrodale Rd, Broke, NSW, Australia
Mount Broke Wines
If your trip to the Broke Fordwich region coincides with a Friday evening, we’d recommend paying a visit to Mount Broke Wines for dinner. The end of each work week sees the Mount Broke Wines transform into a woodfire pizza bar, where classics like margherita, vegetarian, anchovy, and truffle are paired with the winery’s signature pourings. Also worth a visit is the cellar door which is open on Saturdays and Sundays (along with an a la carte lunch in the restaurant).
Address: 130 Adams Peak Rd, Broke, NSW, Australia
Magoony’s Coffee House
Located within an old service station, this family-owned coffee house serves up some of the best coffee, cakes, and pastries on the Hunter. Magoony’s Coffee House is helmed by Melissa and Paul O’Toole, along with their son Ryan, the latter of whom is a pastry chef (ex. Margan Wines & Restaurant). For something more substantial, try the Reuben sandwich.
Address: 19 Singleton St, Broke, NSW, Australia
Best wineries to visit in Broke Fordwich
Krinklewood Estate
A winery with a healthy dose of aesthetic flair, Krinklewood Estate exudes French countryside charm with a manicured tree-lined driveway trailing through rose gardens, olive groves, and sandstone sculptures — there’s even a resplendent peacock that struts around the grounds. Not just a pretty face, Krinklewood Wines is the Hunter Valley’s only biodynamic winery (read more about the winery’s cosmic-inspired farming methods here), with its tasting sessions comprising five organic and biodynamic wines from its Estate, Wild, and Premium ranges.
Address: 712 Wollombi Rd, Broke, NSW, Australia
Talits Estate
In addition to its boastful farmhouse accommodation offerings, family owned winery Talits Estate offers tastings at its cellar door. Each tasting offers the opportunity to sample eight wines (the rosés are a standout) and can be paired with cheese and charcuterie boards made with locally sourced produce.
Address: 722 Milbrodale Rd, Fordwich, NSW, Australia
Winmark Wines
Winmark Wines was founded by David Clarke, the late founder of Macquarie Bank, in the 1960s and since 2015 has been helmed by Karina Adcock, the Dane responsible for bringing Pandora jewellery to Australia. A single varietal vineyard, award-winning winery Winmark Wines specialises in Chardonnay. Adcock’s passion for art is evident in the way sculptures are seamlessly incorporated throughout the 130 acre property, but wine remains at the heart of Winmark. The winery’s signature 2021 Expressions Chardonnay is a masterful expression that reflects the unique terroir of the environment; the Broke Fordwich region being hotter and drier than the rest of the Hunter Valley.
Address: 229 Wollombi Rd, Broke, NSW, Australia
Whispering Brook
Boutique family-owned vineyard Whispering Brook grows varietals for red wine on its terra rossa (red earth) soils, while those for white wine are grown on sandy loam soils closer to the eponymous brook. There’s also a focus on Portuguese grape varieties, thanks to the owners’ discovery of the similarities between growing conditions in the Hunter Valley and Alentajo in south central Portugal. Whispering Brook is notable not only for its Portuguese varietals, but for being home to the only wine and chocolate pairing experience in the Hunter Valley.
Address: Rodd St, Broke, NSW, Australia
What to see and do in Broke Fordwich
Pay a visit to River Flats Estate to stock up on local produce like olives, olive oil, jams and chutneys, honey, and handmade soap. Set on a rustic farm surrounded by olive trees, it looks like something out of a movie set. The shop itself is adorned with an abundance of dried herbs and flowers, lending it a witchy vibe.
Before imbibing its award-winning chardonnay, take the Winmark Sculpture Walk. A self-guided walk, it trails through the estate’s impressive collection of sculptures large and small, curated by the winery’s owner and vigneron Karin Adcock.
What to pack
The Broke Fordwich region is a few degrees cooler than Sydney, making for a comfortable summer (not to mention better grape growing conditions). The wines are elevated but the vibes are relaxed; flat sandals (we like Billini Shoes’ Theon style) or boots are best for vineyard tours.
An oversized tote bag comes in handy when stocking up on various wines and local produce. Take swimwear if you’re staying somewhere with a pool (currently coveting this one by Same), and a book to read while lounging poolside. This travel-sized The Ordinary The Daily Set keeps skincare easy. A dedicated sunscreen is always a must; the Nifty Fifty Hydrating Daily SPF by Go-To Skincare is a current favourite.
The playlist
The abundance of tree-lined roads on Tourist Drive 33 call for laidback tunes — our drive was soundtracked by this Sounds Like Stick Season playlist which features songs that match the vibe of Noah Kahan’s album of the same name.
Words by T. Angel
