Since its establishment in 1865, Zenith has played a crucial role in the world of watchmaking, with the Swiss luxury watch manufacturer lauded for its contributions to the category of precision chronometry. In particular, Zenith excelled in observatory chronometers with the Calibre 135 — developed from 1945 onwards by watchmaker Ephrem Jobin — remaining the most highly awarded observatory chronometer calibre to this day. Produced from 1949 to 1962, the Calibre 135 was produced in two distinct iterations; a commercial variant and a second movement solely created for partaking in chronometry competitions at the Observatories of Neuchâtel, Geneva, Kew Teddington, and Besançon.
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Never commercialised nor encased in wrist or pocket watches, these competition movements underwent exhaustive testing through differing temperatures, shocks, and running in multiple positions, achieving optimal performance every time. Ten of these award-winning movements from the years 1950 to 1954 have been lovingly restored and finished by renowned independent watchmaker Kari Voutilainen. The restoration was the result of a challenge from Aurel Bacs, senior consultant, and Alexandre Ghotbi, head of Continental Europe and the Middle East, at Phillips auction house.
“I’ve known Aurel Bacs and Alexandre Ghotbi for years,” said Zenith CEO Julien Tornare of the collaboration. “We’ve had discussions about ZENITH’s patrimony and what were the hidden treasures that remained to be uncovered. Specifically, they asked about the Calibre 135. Then I had the idea, why don’t we collaborate with Phillips to create a special series around this movement? The beauty of having such a rich patrimony as ZENITH’s is to share it.”
In an homage to its original era, the resultant limited edition Zenith Calibre 135 Observatorie is inspired by previous commercial wristwatch designs featuring the Calibre 135, yet distinct in itself. Drawing upon several references from the 1950s, the timepieces combines signature details with contemporary accents.
A 38mm platinum case features tapered lugs that fit neatly under the bezel, with an oversized notch crown bearing the current Zenith star logo. The slightly domed matte black dial features a guilloché perimeter with a fish-scale motif. Triangular hour markers and polished dot markers take shape in rhodium-plated German silver, with the gold hands creating tonal interest. The large seconds counter a 6 o’clock bears the inscription of the movement’s serial number, with the dial signed ‘Neuchâtel’ at the bottom; a nod to where Zenith, Voutilainen, and the historical Observatory where the Calibre 135-O competed are based.
A sapphire display back showcases the Calibre 135 movement. Decorated and finished by Voutilainen, the movements have been updated with hand-chamfered and polished edges on the gold bridges, bevelled and polished screwheads, circular graining on the main plate, and snailed brushing on the ratchet and crown wheels. “The persons working on these movements were the best watchmakers at the time,” said Voutilainen of the delicate restoration. “They had the know-how to make things precise. That precision doesn’t disappear after 70 years. Our duty was not to touch that performance.”
The limited run of ten Zenith Calibre 135 Observatorie timepieces are available exclusively via Phillips.
Words by Theo Rosen
