In a case of watchmaking inspired by faintly petty reasons, Rolex has released a first for the luxury Swiss watchmaker and claimed a watchmaking record in one fell swoop. The new Rolex Oyster Perpetual Deepsea Challenge ref.126067 expands on the framework laid out by the current lineup of Deepsea and Sea-Dweller timepieces and significantly ups the ante, creating a fully titanium timepiece that is guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 11,000 metres (36,090 feet).
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For context, the story behind Rolex’s line of ultra-deep sea watches began in 1960, when adventurers Captain Don Walsh and Jacques Piccard sent an experimental customised Rolex, the Deep Sea Special, attached to the Trieste bathyscaphe down the Mariana Trench; also known as the deepest place on earth. The Deep Sea Special — which resembles contemporary offerings in terms of the oyster bracelet and tapered lugs but sports a giant bulbous dome above the dial — was more than up to the task, reaching a depth of 10,911 metres.
Then, in 2012, filmmaker James Cameron also conducted his own venture to the bottom of the Mariana Trench, taking a more conventional-looking Rolex 10,908 metres deep in a deep-submergence vehicle titled the Deepsea Challenger (you see where this is going, right?). It wasn’t until 2019 that Rolex forfeit the record of the deepest deep sea watch to Omega, with explorer Victor Vescovo taking an Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep Professional 10,925 metres down and upsupring Rolex by 14 metres. Omega then followed up the triumph by releasing the Seamaster Ultra Deep Pro, a serially produced model with a depth rating of 6000 metres.
Naturally, the Crown has come back to claim its…well, crown. Almost doubling the depth rating of Omega’s commercial release, the Rolex Deepsea Challenger is crafted entirely from RLX titanium (a grade 5 titanium alloy), which allows the watch to be 30% lighter than the experimental stainless steel timepiece attached to the manipulator arm of James Cameron’s submersible. Despite its lightweight credentials and the fact that it’s meant to be worn on the wrist for everyday use, the watch is — to put it plainly — big.
Measuring in at a hefty 50mm, the new Rolex Deepsea Challenge is likely only going to look ‘right’ on those with wrists that resemble tree trunks. However, the Swiss watchmaker has taken pains to ensure the watch’s proportions are ergonomic, slimming down the crystal and adding bracelet extension systems that allow the Deepsea Challenge to be worn over a wetsuit.
Showcasing Rolex’s prestige in horological tools, the Deepsea Challenge makes use of the wealth of innovations developed by the brand. The Deepsea Challenge makes use of the Ringlock system, a patented case architecture that enables the watch to withstand extreme pressure; a helium escape valve, which allows surplus gas to escape from the watch during a diver’s decompression phase in a hyperbaric chamber; the Triplock crown, with three sealed zones; and the Chromalight display, which promotes optimal legibility through lasting luminescence.
The waterproofness of each Rolex Deepsea Challenge is verified by testing in an ultra-high-pressure tank, developed in partnership with Comex (Compagnie Maritime d’Expertises). Each tank is capable of producing a test pressure equivalent to that exerted by water at a depth of 13,750 metres (45,112 feet).
The Rolex Deepsea Challenge is powered by an in-house calibre 3230. The self-winding movement is replete with patented components, including Chronergy escapement and the Parachrom hairspring, which are immune to magnetic fields, as well as Paraflex shock absorbers. Flip over the watch and you’ll find a fitting tribute to the pivotal deep-sea explorers in Rolex history. Alongside the words ‘Mariana Trench’ are the dates ’23-01-1960′ and ’26-03-2012′, which reference the dives by Captain Don Walsh and Jacques Piccard in 1960 and James Cameron in 2012, respectively.
Equipped to go deeper than humanly possible, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Deepsea Challenge ref.126067 is priced at $36,750AUD and available to explore via the Rolex webstore.
Words by Theo Rosen