Acids are no longer an alarming concept. From salicylic and citric to lactic and glycolic, the collective consciousness around the term has changed from something to steer clear of to a welcome addition to our skincare routines. However, for the sensitive skin types among us, skincare acids like alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) can still incite a degree of fear, evoking images of raw, red, irritated skin.
With regular exfoliation being a crucial component of any good skincare routine, there’s been a rise in the use of gentle skincare acids with larger molecular sizes, making for a slower yet effective exfoliation. First, there were polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) like gluconolactone which stars in both Medik8’s Press & Glow Exfoliant (which is gentle enough to be used twice daily and alongside retinol) and Ole Henriksen’s Phat Glow Facial Mask which teams it with pink bentonite clay and birch sap for an exfoliating yet clarifying treatment.
Now, mandelic acid is having a moment in the spotlight; an AHA like glycolic and lactic acid, mandelic acid works to shed dead skin cells to improve the overall tone and texture of the skin. Derived from almonds, it’s has been present in cult-favourite straightforward brand The Ordinary’s lineup for a couple of years now, with The Ordinary Mandelic Acid 10% + HA making for a gentle exfoliating alternative to the brand’s lactic and glycolic formulas. Vegan, superfood-powered skincare brand Youth To The People have recently introduced a new exfoliant to their range, in the form of the Mandelic Acid + Superfood Unity Exfoliant, which teams mandelic acid with salicylic acid and gluconolactone.
“What makes [mandelic acid] unique compared to other AHAs is its larger molecular size,” Youth To The People co-founders Joe Cloyes and Greg Gonzalez explain. “It slowly penetrates skin’s surface layers, decreasing the chance of irritation, redness, dryness, or triggering an inflammatory response – making it a suitable acid for even the most sensitive of skin types.”
While recommended for sensitive skin types, its gentle properties don’t preclude mandelic acid from being effective on oily or combination skin too. “[Mandelic acid] has antimicrobial properties that benefit breakout-prone skin, and recent research has shown it also helps control excess sebum production,” Cloyes and Gonzalez tell us. Additionally, many studies pair mandelic acid with salicylic acid, with the duo having been found to work cohesively to target visible discolouration on the skin like post-acne marks and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
A triple threat, the Youth To The People Mandelic Acid + Superfood Unity Exfoliant incorporates gluconolactone in addition to mandelic and salicylic acids. A PHA, gluconolactone “acts as a humectant to draw moisture into the skin.” Plus, a complex of superfoods like kale and green tea, antioxidants, hydrators, and liquorice extract works to support the skin’s moisture levels and boost skin health as it exfoliates.
How to incorporate mandelic acid into your skincare routine
Mandelic acid comes in several forms, from weekly peels to daily leave-on serums and toners. Its gentle nature allows it to be used in conjunction with other skincare actives like vitamin C, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, and even retinol, however, it shouldn’t be applied at the same time as prescription retinoids (like tretinoin).
The best products with mandelic acid
1. Youth To The People Mandelic Acid + Superfood Unity Exfoliant
A waterlight leave-on liquid exfoliant, this formula contains AHA, BHA, and PHA which work to shed dead skin cells and unclog pores, resulting in smoother skin texture, reduced breakouts and congestion, and an improvement in the appearance of dark spots and pigmentation. The inclusion of glucosamine, liquorice root, and superfoods like kale and green tea work to soothe and hydrate the skin, preventing the formula from causing sensitivity or irritation.
2. The Ordinary Mandelic Acid 10% + HA
A single-ingredient focused formula, this exfoliant comes in a serum-like consistency. Teamed with hyaluronic acid to provide hydration, The Ordinary Mandelic Acid 10% + HA gently exfoliates without drying out your skin. Plus, it clocks in at under $15.
3. Selfless by Hyram Mandelic Acid & Rice Bran Exfoliating Serum
A good introductory exfoliant for those new to skincare or sensitive yet breakout-prone skin types, Selfless by Hyram Mandelic Acid & Rice Bran Exfoliating Serum teams mandelic acid with fellow gentle AHA phytic acid (derived from rice bran) and salicylic acid. Together, they work to unclog pores, reduce the occurrence of breakouts, and smoothen skin texture.
4. HoliFrog Shasta AHA Wash
A gentle, non-foaming refining cleanser, the HoliFrog Shasta AHA Wash makes for an ideal daily exfoliant. An extensive AHA complex works to brighten and smoothen skin, while the addition of plant oils and aloe vera keeps skin feeling hydrated and nourished.
Words by T. Angel
Feature image courtesy of Arthur Elgort
