Regardless of skin type, adequate hydration is essential to maintaining a healthy skin tone and texture. Though some skin types are naturally dry, all skin types (including oily!) can be prone to dehydration, with the signs of dehydrated skin often resembling signs of ageing. Adding some much-needed hydration into your skincare routine in the form of a hydrating serum can help smoothen and soften the skin while diminishing the appearance of dehydration-induced fine lines and wrinkles.
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While everyone and their mother is espousing hyaluronic acid as the be-all and end-all of hydration, hyaluronic acid is not the only – or even most effective – hydrating ingredient on the market. Hyaluronic acid has been used for decades, with its glow up over the past few years largely down to savvy marketing (Eva Longoria teaching us how to pronounce hiya-lurr-onic acid lives rent-free in my mind). Though hyaluronic acid still has its place, there are some brands doing hydration differently, either by pairing hyaluronic acid with other hydration-supporting ingredients, or eschewing it altogether in favour of other expert hydrators.
What is the difference between moisture and hydration?
Moisturisers and hydrators both work cohesively to prevent dry, dehydrated skin. Often used interchangeably by brands and consumers alike (think someone raving about “how hydrating this face oil is” or touting a hyaluronic serum as “moisturising”), moisturising and hydrating products both work in different ways and shouldn’t be confused with one another.
Hydrating serums and products act as humectants, bringing hydration to the skin by pulling water from the air and binding them to your skin, with hydrating serums being water-based. All skin types can benefit from the addition of hydrating products, with hydrating ingredients including hyaluronic acid, aloe vera, glycerin, and tremella mushroom.
On the other hand, moisturising products are emollients or occlusives which are typically oil-based. Emollients are crucial for dry skin and work to seal water and moisture into the skin. While hydrating products penetrate deeper into the layers of the skin, moisturising products sit on the surface and lock in moisture, supporting skin barrier health and preventing transepidermal water loss. Moisturising ingredients include face oils, squalane, emollient serums, and of course face creams and moisturisers.
Dry skin vs dehydrated skin
Whether you need to focus on hydrating or moisturising products (or both!) is largely determined by whether you have dry or dehydrated skin. Dry skin is a skin type, while dehydrated skin is a skin condition that can be affected by lifestyle (like not drinking enough water) and environmental (think harsh cold, windy weather) factors. That means all skin types can be dehydrated at some point, and skin can be both dry and dehydrated and thus requires hydration and moisture in the form of humectants, emollients, and occlusives.
Dehydrated skin often presents dull, tight, and uncomfortable, while dry skin can be flaky, patchy, and potentially easily irritated or prone to redness. The former is lacking in water (hydration) while the latter needs oil (moisture).
The best hydrating serums in 2024
From hyaluronic acid and beyond, these are the best innovative hydrating serums to buy in 2024.
1. Youth To The People Oasis Serum
The power of hyaluronic acid is amplified by peptides and cactus extract in this vegan-friendly hydrating serum. Peptides help boost collagen production to promote youthful, bouncy skin, while antioxidant-rich cactus extract helps the skin retain moisture for longer (much like the desert plan it’s derived from). Like the majority of the California-based vegan skincare brand’s products, the Youth To The People Oasis Serum also contains superfood antioxidants, as well as malachite micronutrients, which revive dehydrated skin cells and lend the serum its blue-green hue.
2. HoliFrog Galilee Antioxidant Dewy Drop
While hyaluronic acid is present in this serum, it’s far from the star of the show. Soothing niacinamide (vitamin B3), glycerin, and hydrating aloe vera meet panthenol (pro-vitamin B5), a humectant that attracts and retains moisture in the skin. These hero ingredients are enhanced by the addition of a slew of rich emollient plant oils (think marula, jojoba, and squalane), co-enzyme Q10 which helps stimulate collagen production, and antioxidant-rich plant extracts. The multifaceted HoliFrog Galilee Antioxidant Dewy Drop has both humectant and emollient properties, making it both a hydrator and a moisturiser – the ideal do-it-all serum.
3. Medik8 Hydr8 B5 Intense
Multi-weight hyaluronic acid is enhanced by the addition of natural moisturising factors (NMF) that are naturally present in the skin and aid in boosting water retention. The Medik8 Hydra B5 Intense derives its purple tone from saskatoon berry, a superfood that protects the skin’s stores of hyaluronic acid by fighting the enzymes that work to break it down, thus helping the skin stay hydrated for longer.
4. Biossance Squalane + Copper Peptide Rapid Plumping Serum
Copper peptides support collagen and elastin production to promote firmer, more supple skin tone and smoother texture. In this serum, they combine with a rapid plumping complex of hyaluronic acid, polyglutamic acid, and squalane. Comprising both hydrating and moisturising ingredients, it draws moisture into the skin and helps it stay there for longer.
5. Susanne Kaufmann Hyaluron Serum
For the true hyaluronic acid-lovers out there, the Susanne Kaufmann Hyaluron Serum is as pure as it gets. It has an ultra-minimal ingredient list with hyaluronic acid at its forefront, with its elegant formulation ensuring it sinks quickly into the skin.
6. SkinCeuticals Hydrating B5 Gel
Hyaluronic acid and panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) work in tandem in this oil-free gel-like serum formula to replenish the skin’s hydration levels and plump out fine lines and wrinkles while supporting skin barrier function.
7. Summer Fridays Dream Oasis Deep Hydration Serum
A creamy, jelly-like serum, the Summer Fridays Dream Oasis Deep Hydration Serum works to both moisturise and hydrate the skin. Humectants glycerin and hyaluronic acid draw hydration into the skin while squalane acts as an emollient, locking in moisture and supporting the skin barrier. This hardworking formula also features a complex of colloidal oatmeal, chamomile, aloe vera, arnica, and tiger grass that works to soothe the skin, relieving any redness or irritation.
8. Mecca Max Watercooler Serum
A completely hyaluronic acid-free hydrating serum, the Mecca Max Watercooler Serum features a slew of hydrating and calming ingredients. Panthenol and green algae extract provide lasting hydration while probiotic-rich fermented birch juice works to support the skin’s microbiome. Akin to a drink of water for your skin, this serum is ideal for those whose skin doesn’t respond well to hyaluronic acid.
9. Innisfree Green Tea Hyaluronic Serum
Encapsulated hyaluronic acid meets amino acid-rich green tea seed and leaf extracts in this soothing serum. The addition of squalane and panthenol work to moisturise and hydrate the skin, respectively.
10. Clarins Double Serum
A veritable one-two punch, this do-it-all serum delivers both hydration and moisture thanks to a unique hydra-lipidic delivery system which combines a water-based serum with an oil-based one. In addition to hyaluronic acid, it contains 21 botanicals such as turmeric, green tea extract, and kiwi extract, which work to brighten the skin and gently plump fine lines.
Words by Esmé Duggan
