The art of adornment dates back to prehistoric times, with the earliest forms of jewellery even predating clothing. Whether worn to showcase one’s idiosyncratic style, convey a hidden message, for sentimental reasons, or simply to complement an outfit, jewellery is not only a form of art and expression, but also a can also act as a connection to one’s culture or a display of appreciation for craftsmanship and savoir faire. As with most discretionary goods—whether it be wine, watches, or handbags—there is a sliding scale here. Not all jewellery is made equal and much like it pays to distinguish sparkling wine from Champagne, it’s eminently useful to know your fine and high jewellery from costume and fashion jewellery.
In addition to jewellery categories—such as fashion, costume, demi-fine, fine, and high—it also helps to understand the multivarious styles of jewellery on the market (yes, we all know what a necklace is — but what’s the difference between a choker, fringed necklace, and a sautoir?), the metals and gemstones most commonly used, and other crucial details to look out for.
This guide to the types of jewellery spans time periods, materials, styles, craftsmanship techniques, and everything else you need to know to identify the styles you like and distinguish the jewellery worth buying from those better left on the shelf.
Key jewellery time periods
Before we get into the types and styles of jewellery, let’s take a brief look at the crucial jewellery time periods. In the jewellery industry, ‘antique’ refers to pieces that are a minimum of 100-years-old, while ‘vintage’ refers to jewellery made between 50- and 100 years ago. So, at the time of writing, anything made between 1925 and 1975 is considered vintage, while jewellery made prior to 1925 is classified as antique.
Although jewellery dates back to ancient civilisations like Egypt, Africa, India, Mesopotamia, and Greece, the most widely available antique and vintage jewellery today spans from the Georgian period to the Art Deco movement, with pieces primarily originating from England, Europe, and later the United States. While this is by no means an all-encompassing list of every jewellery time period, these are the key time periods to know for vintage and antique jewellery.
Georgian Period (1714–1830)
The Georgian period is named after four Georges—George I, George II, George III, and George IV—who reigned over Great Britain for a cumulative period of 116 years. The jewellery of this time reflects the emergence of a new bourgeoisie class and the extension of arts and fashion to the middle classes, as well as the newcound freedom enjoyed by many women of the time. In line with the sartorial liberation from heavy, structured garments and the introduction of lighter, flowy dresses, Georgian jewellery was defined by excess and exuberance. Encompassing the Rococo, Neoclassicism, and Romanticism movements, notable Georgian jewellery styles include sentimental pieces like acrostic jewellery (where the first letter of each gemstone combines to spell out words of endearment like ‘dearest’ or ‘regard’), parures (full sets of jewellery; these usually include a necklace, hair and dress ornaments, brooches, bracelets, pendants, and earrings) and demi-parures (truncated versions of these), rivière necklaces, paste jewellery, and half-hoop rings.
Georgian jewellery was all hand-made by artisans and master craftsmen and gemstone cuts and settings were still being refined. With that in mind, these pieces can look a little more raw than pieces from later periods (such as Victorian, Belle Epoque, and Art Deco) which coincided with the development of machine production and the resultant industrial era. That isn’t to say they don’t display exemplary craftsmanship — Georgian jewellery was notable for its attention to detail, with fine engraving and cannetille work present in many pieces.
Diamonds and coloured gemstones were predominantly rose-cut or old-mine-cut. As electricity was not widely available until the latter half of the 19th century, most Georgian jewellery was designed to be viewed by candlelight. For this reason, diamond and gemstone settings used simply closed-back silver collet settings which were foiled in the back to radiate a subtle glow. This can be contrasted with the more shimmery, blingy styles and settings of contemporary jewellery.
Victorian Era (1837–1901)
Spanning the time of Queen Victoria’s—lengthy—reign, the Vicotrian era was a seminal one for jewellery, with Her Majesty acting as not only a ruler, but a trendsetter. The Victorian era encompassess three key periods in jewellery—Romantic, Grand, and Aesthetic—each of which are known for their incorporation of distinct motifs, symbols, and silhouettes, many of which have remained in the language of jewellery to this day.
Some key symbols that emerged during the Victorian jewellery period include snakes (Prince Albert proposed to Queen Victoria with a serpent engagement ring set with an emerald), stars, crescent moons, stars, horseshoes, and birds. The era also saw the rise of mourning and memento mori jewellery, as well as Grand Tour jewellery which arose as a result of increased European travel by wealthy Britons and sought to emulate the appearance of ancient Roman architecture.
Jewellery from the Victorian era also benefited from advancements in diamond and gemstone cutting techniques which allowed for whiter, clearer stones. As a result, artisans swapped closed-back settings for opened-back settings which allows more light to shine through, giving off a more sparkly effect.
Art Nouveau (1885–1910)
Overlapping with the tail end of the Victorian era and running alongside the Edwardian and Belle Époque period, the Art Nouveau movement is characterised by its defiance of industrial mass-production. Defined by fluidity and artistic expression, the Art Nouveau introduced the combination of precious and non-precious materials with vibrantly coloured gemstones and spearheaded the use of coloured glass and enamelling, which was previously unheard of for fine jewellery. Rather than focusing on precise, realistic depictions, Art Nouveau designs interpreted nature (often flowers, but also birds and insects) and the female form in abstract, romantic, and striking ways.
Edwardian and Belle Époque (1895–1915)
The last era to be named after its ruler, the Edwardian era (known as the Belle Époque in France — meaning ‘the beautiful era’) was defined by its elaborate designs executed with a lighter touch. Advances in the production of platinum allowed for thinner settings for gemstones and a certain fluidity and delicacy which was coupled with the ornamental Rococo style designs of the past. Like the Art Nouveau period, Edwardian and Belle Époque jewellery rejected mass production and embraced artisanal craftsmanship.
The defining aesthetic of the time was platinum jewellery set with old-mine-cut diamonds and adorned with pearls, fashioned into motifs such as bows, tassels, ribbons, flowers, and leaves. Certain symbols from the Victorian era were explored here, however they were now rendered in platinum. While brooches (often in lacy garland styles and with the ability to be converted into pendants) were initially the post popular style of jewellery during the Edwardian and Belle Époque period, the lowering of necklines resulted in the need for more necklaces, resulting in the emergence of lavaliere and negligee necklaces, as well as pendant earrings and dog collars. The latter is not to be confused with dog tags; dog collar necklaces are elaborate chokers designed to fit tightly around the neck.
Art Deco (1920s–1930s)
An era that has remained popular to this day, the Art Deco movement was the result of a rapidly changing society. The name ‘Art Deco’ is taken from the Exposition International des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes exhibit held in Paris in 1925, which focused on the relationship between modern industrialism and the arts and was largely dedicated to jewellery.
The post-war era was marked by advancements in architecture, fashion, and travel, and an overall sense of liberation for women. Shunning the comparative formality and restriction of the preceding Edwardian era and sombre war time, the Art Deco period coincided with shorter hemlines, plunging necklines, and an overall desire for aesthetic and practical liberation. Gabrielle Chanel’s sleek and practical designs emerged during this time and were matched with unfussy jewellery with a hint of edge.
The bows, garlands, and elaborate chokers of the past were forgone in favour of geometric, structured styles that echoed the architecture style of the time — a marked departure from the fluidity of Art Nouveau designs and the whimsy and typical take on beauty of the Belle Époque. While Art Deco designs were initially notable for their geometry and contrast black-and-white colour palettes, as the movement evolved it drew inspiration from international sources, such as Egyptian motifs (particularly influenced by the tomb of Tutankhamun), carved gemstones from India, and Perian and Islamic art. This resulted in an infusion of vivid hues, with later Art Deco pieces using combinations of gemstones that were unusual in both cut and colour.
Popular styles of the time were long sautoir necklaces, cuff bracelets, tutti frutti jewellery (using multicoloured gemstones), and long earrings.
The types of metal used in jewellery
Fine jewellery is often distinguished from costume and fashion jewellery by the materials used. While we believe craftsmanship and savoir faire also comes into play, having a preliminary understanding of the types of metals commonly used in jewellery can help you select jewellery that will last a lifetime.
Gold
Gold is a precious metal and has long been valued for both its aesthetic beauty and its physical properties. Solid gold doesn’t tarnish and its malleability means it’s a relatively easy metal to work with for jewellers. The gold used in jewellery is an alloy, which means it’s mixed with other metals. This increases its hardness and also slightly changes the tone of the metal. The ratio of pure gold to other metals is measured in carats — 24k gold is 99.9% gold and 0.1% other metals; 22k is 99.67% gold and 0.33% other metals; 18k is 75% gold and 25% other metals; and 14k is 58.3% gold and 31.7% other metals. Jewellery made with 24k gold is rare and typically reserved for wear in weddings and other ceremonial occasions (particularly in Asia), as it is too soft for everyday wear.
The higher the carat, the more yellow the gold. This is why you’ll often find 22k gold jewellery (often used in traditional Indian, Chinese, and Middle Eastern cultures) has a warmer yellow tone than the contemporary 18k and 14k gold pieces often sold for daily wear in western societies.
The presence of other metals in the alloy is what results in white and rose gold. Rose gold comprises gold and copper, with the latter lending it a pink hue. Meanwhile, white gold is made by combining gold with nickel, palladium, and silver — even with these additions, the alloy will still have a hint of yellow, so it’s then coated in rhodium to achieve the cool, silvery tone.
Sterling silver
While gold is typically considered the precious metal du jour when it comes to fine jewellery, there have been certain points in time when silver has been more highly valued. Silver itself is a pure chemical element, but the silver used in jewellery is sterling silver, an alloy made by combining 92.5% silver with 7.5% other metals (typically copper). The only drawback to the cool-toned metal is that it will tarnish over time, however this can be cleaned using polishing products and restored to its original lustrous state.
While some fine jewellery brands exclusively use gold (including white gold) or platinum in their products, others do incorporate silver jewellery in their offerings. A notable example is Tiffany & Co., with its iconic ‘Return to Tiffany’ heart jewellery and other lifestyle offerings (such as baby spoons and measuring tapes) offered in sterling silver.
Sterling silver is also used as the base metal for gold vermeil jewellery, which sees it plated with a minimum of 2.5 microns of gold.
Platinum
In the jewellery world, platinum is considered the most noble metal due to its high melting point, anti-corrosive properties, and comparative hardness to gold and steel — all of which make it difficult to work with. Platinum jewellery is made with an alloy comprising 95% platinum and 5% ruthenium and/or iridium. Platinum boasts impressive durability and its silver-white tone makes it a viable alternative to white gold, which often requires rhodium replating over time. Platinum rose to prominence during the Belle Époque period, with its strength allowing for slimmer, more graceful high jewellery designs and thinner settings for diamonds and gemstones. Its durability is a key drawcard to this day, with platinum wedding rings acting as a popular alternative to white gold.
Palladium
The term ‘platinum’ actually refers to a group of metals. In addition to platinum itself, there’s also iridium, osmium, palladium, rhodium, and ruthenium. In jewellery, platinum is used as an alloy, as it’s mixed with iridium and/or ruthenium. Palladium belongs to the platinum group and is used in jewellery in its pure form rather than as an alloy. Like platinum, palladium is a silver-white colour but slightly paler than platinum and white gold. Palladium is stronger, lighter, and less malleable than platinum and is often used as a cool-toned hardware option in certain Hermès belts and handbags. Palladium is more popular as hardware or alongside other metals in jewellery than as a standalone metal. Both platinum and palladium are hypoallergenic.
Stainless steel
Stainless steel is an alloy containing at least 10.5% chromium in addition to iron and other metals. One of the main benefits of stainless steel is in the first word of the name — it’s corrosion resistant, thanks to its chromium content. It’s also scratch resistant and doesn’t tarnish, making it suitable for daily wear in rugged conditions. For this reason, it’s often used in sports and dive watches.
Titanium
Titanium jewellery is steadily growing in popularity thanks to its lightweight, durable, and hypoallergenic properties, as well as its unique gray hue. The latter quality makes it a viable option for body piercings, as it’s less likely to cause a reaction. Watchmakers have long embraced titanium for their lightweight watches, with Bulgari often using the metal for its ultra-thin timepieces. While it’s not considered a precious metal, some jewellery designers like Chopard and Glenn Spiro have also begun incorporating titanium in their high jewellery designs, as its lightweight nature allows them to create intricate, large-scale designs that aren’t heavy or difficult to wear. Like platinum, titanium is a popular metal for men’s wedding rings.
Precious and semi-precious gemstones in jewellery
We can’t talk about gemstones in jewellery without starting with diamonds. Traversing geographical and cultural boundaries, diamonds are almost universally valued with various cultures and communities ascribing them certain powers and symbolic significance. Formed from carbon, diamonds have endured in both popularity and physicality — their ability to weather fire and scratches, and their exceptional hardness coupled with their aesthetic brilliance and relative rarity makes them a covetable gemstone for jewellers and jewellery lovers alike. The quality of diamonds is graded by its adherence to the ‘4Cs’: carat, clarity, colour, and cut.
- Carat: also known as ‘karat’, this is a measurement of weight, with each carat equal to 0.2 grams (200mg). So, a 5 carat diamond would weigh 1 gram.
- Clarity: clarity refers to the absence or presence of blemishes or inclusions within a diamond. Diamonds with perfect clarity (i.e. flawless diamonds) contain no blemishes or inclusions even under intense magnifications, while Very Very Slightly included (VVS¹ and VVS²) diamonds have excellent clarity and contain inclusions that are difficult to notice under intense magnification. Very Slightly included (VS¹ and VS²) diamonds contain noticeable inclusions under intense magnification, but these are not as visible to the naked eye. Slightly Included (SI¹ and SI²) diamonds have inclusions that are visible to the naked eye.
- Cut: the grade of a diamond’s cut refers to how it interacts with light. A well-cut diamond will be proportional, symmetrical, and cut to optimise the reflection and refraction of light, resulting in a brightly sparkling stone. Meanwhile, a poorly cut diamond will appear dull and lack sparkle. There are five grades of diamond cuts, which range from excellent down to poor.
- Colour: a diamond’s colour grade refers to the amount of colour present in the diamond. For colourless—or ‘white’—diamonds, this is graded from D (the most transparent) to Z (the least transparent). Diamonds with a colour grade of D, E, and F are considered the most valuable as they are the most transparent and appear more white than diamonds with opacity or cloudiness. Fancy coloured diamonds which come in shades like red, green, orange, pink, and blue are graded using a different scale which is based on their intensity of colour.
Coloured gemstones are divided into two categories: precious and semi-precious. The three types of precious gemstones are rubies, sapphires and emeralds — diamonds are also technically included here too. Semi-precious gemstones encompass all other gemstones that fall outside the category of precious gemstones, including opals, moonstones, onyx, turquoise, coral, amethyst, garnet, topaz, lapis lazuli, malachite, and peridot.
Pearls are often cited alongside gemstones as a valued inclusion in jewellery. However while pearls are classified as gems, they are not gemstones; unlike the gemstones on this list (such as diamonds, rubies, and amethysts), pearls are not formed underground and are organic matter formed within various species of freshwater and saltwater molluscs.
Cultured and lab-grown diamonds and gemstones
Technological innovation means that laboratories can now imitate the same environmental conditions of heat and pressure which cause diamonds and other gemstones to naturally form within the depths of the Earth’s crust. Chemically, cultured or lab-grown diamonds and coloured gemstones are indistinguishable from their mined counterparts, however they come without the strain on the environment and potential ethical conundrums surrounding the use of labour associated with sourcing natural gemstones.
Jewellery quality types
Jewellery is often considered in terms of aesthetic—such as minimalist and dainty or maximalist and chunky—however it’s important to know about the varying types of jewellery quality. Certain types of jewellery can last you a lifetime if treated well—namely, fine jewellery—while others are designed to showcase a certain aesthetic but are more ephemeral in their approach to construction. And then there’s high jewellery, which is an exemplar display of craftsmanship and prioritises the use of the finest metals and precious stones. Here, we break down the types of jewellery quality on the market and show you how to select pieces that will last a lifetime.
Costume and fashion jewellery
The terms ‘costume jewellery’ and ‘fashion jewellery’ are often used interchangeably. They’re similar in the way that they’re both constructed from inexpensive materials such as base metals like stainless steel, zinc, brass, and aluminium paired with glass stones and imitation pearls. The term costume jewellery came about in the early 20th century and gained traction thanks to fashion designer Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel, who created long sautoir style faux pearl necklaces which provided a cost effective alternative to the real thing.
While costume and fashion jewellery are relatively new terms, the demand for affordable alternatives to fine and high jewellery has long been there. Paste jewellery made from glass stones rose to popularity during the Georgian era and continued into the Victorian era. The concept of paste jewellery continues today in the form of Swarovski—founded by Daniel Swarovski—who played an instrumental role in developing affordable imitation gemstones.
While costume jewellery tends to imitate the appearance of high and fine jewellery, fashion jewellery emulates jewellery trends. These take on a more contemporary tone and can be seen in the jewellery offerings in high-street stores such as Zara, Lovisa, H&M, and Mimco. Some of the entry level jewellery offerings from luxury fashion houses are also classed as fashion jewellery thanks to their use of inexpensive materials. Notable examples include Chanel, Hermès, and Dior.
Demi-fine jewellery
A step up from costume and fashion jewellery but not quite at the level of fine jewellery, demi-fine (sometimes called semi-fine) jewellery is made from gold-plated or gold vermeil metals. Both gold plating and gold vermeil are techniques of applying a thin layer of gold to another metal, but they vary in the base metal and amount of gold used.
- Gold-plated jewellery: gold-plated jewellery uses any form of inexpensive base metal (often brass, copper, or nickel, but sometimes stainless steel) and has a thin coating of gold, typically 0.5 microns or less. Gold-plated jewellery is prone to scratching and tarnishing and is often not very durable due to the weaker base metals used.
- Gold vermeil jewellery: all gold vermeil jewellery has a base metal of sterling silver and a minimum gold coating of 2.5 microns. Its thicker coating of gold and more durable base material means gold vermeil jewellery lasts significantly longer than gold-plated jewellery.
Demi-fine jewellery also encompasses jewellery made with sterling silver or 9k gold (an alloy made with (37.5% pure gold and 62.5% other metals).
Fine jewellery
Fine jewellery is defined by its use of high-quality materials. Namely, precious metals such as gold (14k and above), silver, and platinum. Fine jewellery pieces may also incorporate precious and semi-precious gemstones (both natural and lab-grown).
Technically, the definition of fine jewellery focuses on its material composition, however it’s important to remember that even solid gold, sterling silver, and platinum jewellery with precious or semi-precious gemstones can be mass-produced. For that reason, we also like to take qualitative factors into account, such as the overall design aesthetic—i.e. the vibe!—behind a piece and the craftsmanship that goes into it. Fine jewellery tends to be manufactured in higher quantities than high jewellery and may incorporate the use of machine-made components, but should still boast a high level of finishing.
High jewellery
High jewellery, or haute joaillerie, represents the pinnacle of jewellery craftsmanship. Like fine jewellery, high jewellery makes use of precious metals (usually gold and platinum) and precious and semi-precious gemstones (these tend to be natural gemstones rather than lab-grown). High jewellery pieces may also make use of rare or one-off gemstones, such as the Chopard Insofu collection, which uses stones cut from the impressive 6225-carat rough emerald Insofu, found in Zambia.
Traditionally, the term ‘high jewellery’ was used to denote one-of-a-kind pieces, however it has since been expanded to encompass jewellery pieces from luxury maisons (including Van Cleef & Arpels, Bulgari, Boucheron, Chopard, Piaget, and Buccellati) that display exemplar craftsmanship, artistry, and attention to detail, and make use of rare or precious stones. While not always one-of-a-kind pieces, these are limited in nature and will be one of few. High jewellery pieces are not intended for daily wear—as most fine jewellery pieces are—and are viewed as works of art.
The essential styles of jewellery to know
We all know the difference between a necklace and a bracelet. But being able to distinguish a choker from a sautoir or fringed necklace, and a tennis bracelet from a charm bracelet or cuff bracelet goes a long way towards helping you identify the style(s) of jewellery you like and cultivate a vernacular that allows you to accurately refer to and search for them.
Necklaces
As the name suggests, a necklace is a piece of jewellery that is worn around the neck. Necklaces come in a vast range of styles, from chokers and dog collars that sit flush with the neck to dangly sautoirs, negligee, and lariat necklaces.
Below, you’ll find all the different types of necklace styles worth knowing about.
Chain necklace
Composed of a series of interconnected links, chain necklaces can be worn on their own and also form the basis of many contemporary necklaces such as pendant and charm necklaces. On their own, chain necklaces can have links ranging from small to chunky, with popular styles including snake, paperclip, rope, cable, and bar chains.
When it comes to chain necklaces that serve as a base for pendants, the most popular necklace length is 16 to 18 inches, which usually places the necklace on or below the collar bone. Meanwhile, paperclip charm necklaces tend to be shorter and to sit on or just above the collar bone.
Pendant necklace
Pendants have been popular since ancient times, with examples of pendants present across pretty much every era of jewellery. Pendant necklaces originated in ancient civilisations such as Egypt as amulets or talismans which were worn for protection or as symbols of status or religion. Since then, they’ve evolved into a means for aesthetic expression, however they may also hold personal significance for the wearer (such as in the case of birthstone necklaces or lockets).
A pendant is a form of decorative jewellery that can be attached to a necklace by a small loop (also called a ‘jump ring’). The loop can be used to wear the pendant by threading a chain necklace through it, or by attaching the loop to a single link within a larger chain necklace. Not all decorative adornments on necklaces are pendants; if these are permanently attached to the chain or the chain is directly threaded through the jewellery itself (i.e. no loop or jump ring), these are not classified as pendant necklaces.
Choker necklace
A choker necklace (often simply just called a choker) is a short, close-fitting necklace designed to sit on the neck itself or at the base of the neck. Choker necklaces have flitted in and out of fashion throughout history; they enjoyed great popularity during the Victorian era, as well as the 1990s, and again in the late 2010s. They can be made from metal, fabric, or ribbon. Chokers made from metal tend to sit at the base of the neck, while those crafted from fabric or ribbon are usually worn on the neck.
Dog collar
Not to be confused with military-inspired dog tags, dog collars (or ‘collier de chien’ in French) are a type of choker necklace popularised by Queen Alexandra of Denmark (wife of King Edward VII) during the Belle Époque period. Dog collars fit tightly around the throat and are more ornate than classic chokers, often featuring flexible strands of pearls, floral motifs, or diamond embellishments.
Fringe necklace
Much like fringed detailing on clothing, fringe necklaces feature a series of spear (straight) or teardrop shaped hangings dangling from a main chain or cord. These are typically graduated in size, starting smaller from the back of the neck and gradually getting larger to meet in the middle. In fine and high jewellery, fringe necklaces are typically constructed from precious metals and adorned with diamonds or coloured gemstones. However, contemporary fashion jewellery iterations can also be presented on cords and feature fabric or beading.
Charm necklace
While pendant necklaces feature a single statement pendant, charm necklaces feature several small decorative pendants (also known as charms) which hang from separate links on a chain.
Bib necklace
A bib necklace features an embellished front section that sits in a semicircle shape around the chest, in a manner not dissimilar to a baby’s bib. Bib necklaces may look somewhat similar to fringe necklaces in terms of their degree of ornateness, however they differ in construction; each element of a fringe necklace is connected to the chain, while bib necklaces take a more woven approach. Fine and high jewellery bib necklaces prioritise a sense of fluidity, creating bib necklaces that are malleable and move with the body, ensuring they’re comfortable to wear.
Beaded necklace
A beaded necklace refers to any necklace made by stringing small, often uniform beads together on a cord, string, or chain. Beaded necklaces can be shorter like chokers or longer in the case of sautoirs.
Lavalier necklace
A lavalier necklace (also known as a lavaliere or lavallière) is a unique take on a pendant necklace. It sees a fine chain entwined around a dangling natural pearl or diamond, which is suspended by a chain necklace. The lavalier pendant itself may feature delicate filigree openworked details.
Negligee necklace
An offshoot of the lavalier necklace, a negligee necklace features a central bar or geometric detail from which dangle two decorative hangings in differing lengths. These decorative hangings can feature adornments such as pearls, diamonds, and coloured gemstones. The Boucheron Quatre Classique offers a contemporary take on this heritage style.
Pearl necklace
A pearl necklace is a necklace that features pearls strung onto a cord, string, or chain. While traditional pearl necklaces tended to feature uniform or graduated pearls side-by-side in an unbroken fashion, modern pearl necklaces often allow chain details to show through or break up the pearls with gemstones or other details.
Rivière necklace
Originating in the Georgian era, a rivière necklace features subtly graduating stones; each almost imperceptibly larger than the one before it set in a symmetrical fashion with the largest in the middle. The stones in question could be precious, semi-precious, or paste (made from glass). Rivière necklaces are a statement-making yet timeless style, and are a favourite for Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour.
Sautoir necklace
Sautoir necklaces are named after the French word sauter, meaning ‘to jump’, which references the movement of the beads on the body of these ultra-long necklaces. Defined by their long length which typically finishes in a tassel or other suspended ornamentation, sautoir necklaces were popular during the Art Deco era and drew inspiration from ornamental styles from China, India, and Egypt. Van Cleef & Arpels often makes ultra-long sautoir versions of its Alhambra necklaces, while Piaget has long used the sautoir has means for horological experimentation, with its Swinging Sautoir styles finishing with a—functional and ornamental—watch dial, blurring the lines between horology and high jewellery.
Lariat necklace
A lariat necklace is a long, Y-shaped necklace that eschews a traditional clasp closure in favour of a loop that threads through at the front. The loop can be used to adjust the length of the necklace, allowing it to sit closer to the neck like a choker with a longer dangling linear drop, or extend the ‘V’ part of the Y-shape and shorten the dangling element. The loop closure of a lariat necklace is typically employed as a decorative element, with brands employing design elements like snake’s heads as the closure. Some contemporary lariat necklaces have a traditional back clasp closure and a long Y-shape silhouette, resulting in a more ‘clean’ and minimalist aesthetic.
Tennis necklace
Much like a tennis bracelet, a tennis necklace features a single continuous strand of individually set diamonds linked by a precious metal (usually gold or silver), although some contemporary versions see the diamonds swapped for coloured gemstones. Prior to 1978, the tennis bracelet was simply referred to as an ‘eternity bracelet’ or ‘line bracelet’; this changed during the infamous US Open match that year, when tennis player Chris Evert’s diamond bracelet came undone on the court, resulting in play being halted until it was returned to her wrist. The tennis necklace echoes this post-1978 nomenclature.
Torque necklace
A close relative of the choker, a torque necklace is a rigid style crafted from a single piece of metal that encircles the neck and rests at its base like a collar. Contemporary versions of the torque necklace include the Cartier Cartier Juste un Clou Torque and the Chloé Fruits Torque necklace.
Rings
A ring is a circular band designed to be worn on the finger. They’re typically made out of metal (precious or otherwise) and can feature gemstones or enamel designs. From engagement rings and class rings to signet rings and gypsy rings, these are the types of rings worth knowing about.
Band ring
The simplest form of ring, a band ring is a ring made of solid metal and free from any central decorative elements. Band rings can range from plain or ornate (with inset gemstones or carved details) and can be curved or flat.
Engagement rings
Traditionally worn on the fourth finger of the left hand, engagement rings symbolise a person’s promise to marry someone, and are typically given by the person proposing marriage. Engagement rings originated in ancient Rome where women wore rings to symbolise a commitment or marriage contract, but the earliest specific engagement ring came about in 1477, when Archduke Maximilian of Austria proposed marriage to Mary of Burgundy by giving her a diamond engagement ring. Despite the earliest engagement ring featuring diamonds, diamond engagement rings weren’t commonplace until 1947 when De Beers released its ‘A Diamond Is Forever’ campaign, which created the link between eternal love and diamonds that is taken as gospel today.
Cocktail ring
A cocktail ring is a statement piece that features an oversized gemstone (or a constellation of gemstones) in the middle. Cocktail jewellery often uses gold-plated or gold vermeil metal and glass stones, and are designed with occasion wear in mind. They are typically worn on the index or middle finger due to their size.
Eternity ring
An eternity ring is a band ring with a continuous line of individually set gemstones (often diamonds, but they can also be coloured gemstones) that run across the entire circumference of the ring.
Half eternity ring
Taking on a similar aesthetic to eternity rings, half eternity rings see the gemstones set on one half of the band. This gives wearers an appearance similar to an eternity ring but at a lower price and often with a more comfortable feeling during wear (as the gemstones don’t sit between the fingers).
Half-hoop rings
Available in five- or seven-stone versions, half-hoop rings feature set diamonds or coloured gemstones that are arranged in an east-west formation. Unlike eternity rings, the gemstones on half-hoop rings are graduated so that the largest is in the middle and the smallest on either side, with the gemstones taking up one-quarter to one-third of the circumference of the ring. Half-hoop rings rose to popularity during the Georgian era.
Gypsy rings
A gypsy ring is a style which sees gemstones embedded into the band using a flush mount setting. Despite the name, gypsy rings were not worn by Romani communities; the style rose to popularity during the Victorian era and the name references the way the stones appear to ‘float’ or ‘wander’ throughout the ring, in a similar way to the nomadic communities.
Multifinger ring
A multifinger ring is a style designed to be worn simultaneously across two or more fingers.
Signet ring
Originally worn by the upper classes to showcase their family crests—and originating in the rings used to stamp the wearer’s coat of arms onto wax seals for authentication purposes in ancient times—signet rings are crafted from solid metal and feature a flat surface on the top which is engraved with a family crest, initials, coat of arms, or even star sign. Contemporary signet rings may have a flat gemstone rather than an engraveable metal surface.
Claddagh ring
Originating in Irish culture, a Claddagh ring is a traditional style used to represent love, friendship, and loyalty. Claddagh rings feature two clasped hands holding a heart with a crown between them. The hands signify friendship, the heart signifies love, and the crown is a symbol of loyalty. The finger you wear it on and the positioning of a Claddagh ring can also be used to send a message; on the left hand, the heart facing you means you’re married while facing outwards implies you’re engaged. Meanwhile, on the right hand, the heart facing you means you’re in a relationship, while pointing outwards means you’re single.
Class ring
Presented to graduating classes in the final year of high school or college, class rings are personalised with the year of graduation, school name, and a coloured stone. In the past, class rings have tended to be chunky, however contemporary takes are bucking this trend. Class rings are often in an oversized signet ring style.
Spinner ring
A spinner ring is a style comprised of two or more bands, with the outer band(s) able to spin independently of the inner band. Also known as ‘worry rings’ or ‘meditation rings’, they date back to ancient Tibet and medieval Europe where they were thought to have mystical powers due to their ability to ground and focus the wearer — essentially, ancient fidget spinners.
Navaratna ring
A Navaratna ring is a piece of jewellery that contains nine gemstones, each of which represents a planet or celestial body in Hindu astrology. Each gemstone is associated with a specific Navagraha (celestial god). Traditionally, there is a ruby in the centre, surrounded by a diamond, natural pearl, red coral, hessonite, a blue sapphire, cat’s eye, a yellow sapphire, and emerald (in clockwise order from the top). Some modern interpretations arrange the stones in a linear fashion.
Toi et moi ring
Meaning “you and me” in French, toi et moi rings see two gemstones sitting side-by-side, in an open or closed setting.
Earrings
Earrings are a form of decorative jewellery worn on the ear. Most earrings are designed to be worn on the ear lobe, but some are intended to be placed on other parts of the ear such as the helix and tragus. Most earrings require the ears to be pieces, though there are also clip-on and cuff styles.
Stud earrings
Studs are the most classic style of earring and form the foundation for many other styles (such as drop and tassel earrings). Stud earrings comprise a metal post with a front stud element with no dangling components. They can range from simple small round diamond studs to more statement making emerald-cut sapphires surrounded by diamonds.
Girandole or chandelier earrings
This style came about in the Georgian era and refers to earrings with a central motif (often a bow or large stone) with three dangling tiers of gemstones suspended from a hook. These were originally called girandole earrings (after the French word for candelabra or chandelier), and are now most commonly known as chandelier earrings.
Threader earrings
A relatively new style, threader earrings are thin lightweight chains that are designed to thread through the piercing of an earlobe and dangle on both sides of the ear. Unlike most earrings, they do not feature a hook or post closure. They’re a decidedly contemporary style of earring and err on the minimalist side.
Hoop earrings
Hoop earrings have been worn since ancient times, originating in Mesopotamia before travelling to Egypt, Greece, and Rome. They were considered symbols of power, status, and beauty; with these connotations holding true to this day. Hoop earrings are circular earrings crafted from metal — they can either have a post with a push back closure or loop around to form a complete circle with a hinged post closure.
Huggie earrings
Huggie earrings are smaller hoops that are designed to sit close to the earlobe. They often have a hinged post closure.
Ear crawlers
Also known as ‘climber earrings’, ear crawlers are secured at the earlobe and appear to climb up the ear, giving off the appearance of multiple ear piercings.
Drop earrings
Drop earrings see stud earrings fitted with a small hanging element that extends slightly past the earlobe. The hanging element sits relatively close to the stud and has limited movement.
Dangle earrings
Dangle earrings are similar to drop earrings in that they feature a hanging element, but differ in their execution. While drop earrings have limited movement, dangle earrings hang well below the earlobe and have a swaying or swinging movement when the wearer moves.
Teardrop earrings
Teardrop earrings are a type of structured earring shaped like a droplet or pear, with the narrow part affixed to the earlobe and the wider part hanging down.
Tassel earrings
Tassel earrings are a type of dangle earring which feature beaded or fabric tassels hanging from them.
Ear cuffs
A non-pierced style, ear cuffs are designed to wrap around the outer edge of the ear (usually the helix, but they can also be worn lower down) and can be worn alongside other pierced earring styles.
Earring jackets
Offering a unique way to enliven simple stud earrings, earring jackets attach to the post of an earring—in a similar way to a push-back closure—to add embellishment and interest.
Bracelets
A bracelet is a piece of decorative jewellery designed to be worn on the arm; typically the wrist, but they can also be worn on the forearm or upper arm. Bracelets can be made out of metal or other materials like beads or enamel.
Chain bracelet
Much like a chain necklace, a chain bracelet is composed of a series of interconnected metal links. Chain bracelets can range from dainty fine chains and paper clip styles to chunky linked styles.
Charm bracelet
A charm bracelet is a chain bracelet with small ornamental charms hanging off separate links of the chain. While most charm bracelets use chain bracelets as the base, there are some notable exceptions such as Pandora’s infamous charm bracelets, thread the charms onto a rope chain in a manner not dissimilar to beads.
Bangle
A bangle is a type of structured circular bracelet with no clasps or visible closures. Bangles have been a mainstay in India since the 16th century, while contemporary iterations include Cartier’s iconic Love bracelets.
Beaded bracelet
Beaded bracelets see beads strung onto a cord, string, or chain. They can either be in an unbroken line or divided by charms or chain links. Luxury takes on beaded bracelets often used semi-precious gemstones such as amethyst, jade, lapis lazuli, and turquoise.
Bar bracelet
A chain bracelet with a flat bar running across the centre, bar bracelets are often worn by babies and engraved with the wearer’s name or birthdate. For many people, a bar bracelet is the first piece of jewellery one owns, making it an inherently sentimental piece.
Cuff bracelet
The terms ‘cuff bracelet’ and ‘bangle’ are often used interchangeably, but there are differences between the two. They’re both structured styles, however bangles are completely enclosed while cuff bracelets have an opening on one side. As a result, cuff bracelets can fit closer to the skin than bangles, which are worn loose.
Hand chain
A hybrid bracelet-ring piece, a hand chain connects a ring to a bracelet with a connecting chain. Hand chains are popular in parts of India, where they form bridal jewellery, however they’ve also been adopted in the west, albeit in finer, more delicate styles.
Pearl bracelet
A pearl bracelet features pearls strung onto a cord, string, or chain. Pearls can be placed side-by-side or broken up by other gemstones or metal details.
Wrap bracelets
A wrap bracelet is designed to wrap around the wrist multiple times for a layered appearance. While some wrap bracelets are crafted from cord or fabric, luxurious takes on the style include Bulgari’s Serpenti Viper—crafted from yellow or rose gold—and the Hermès Kelly Double Tour, which is made from leather.
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Words by T. Angel
