A collection that unites the dichotomies of leisure and tailoring, Zegna Winter 2022 continues to tread the path set out by creative director Alessandro Sartori, coalesing a multitude of sartorial categories into a singular masculine wardrobe. Following on from the sartorial reset initiated a year ago, Zegna Winter 2022 unites aesthetics, ethics, and performance, employing new shapes and silhouettes for the contemporary man.
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“I keep looking at the world through the Zegna lens,” said Sartori. “The reality we live in today requires adaptability; it asks us all to be fluid. Translating this idea into clothing means building a language of shapes and textures that grows and consolidates over time, matching the needs of the moment. The notion of the hybrid is one I keep exploring, because there’s progress in erasing staid categories.”
The collection follows a new brand identity for Zegna, with the Italian luxury fashion house dropping the ‘Ermenegildo’ last month and introducing a new logo while also phasing out its little brother sub-brand Z Zegna. Zegan Winter 2022 postulates that notions of function, style, comfort, and individuality should not be mutually exclusive, with the Zegna definition of contemporary style being able to seamlessly transition from the indoors to the great outdoors. The terms formal and casual are made redundant, with pieces embodying both concepts. The layering of pieces and the intermingling of silhouettes and functions takes centre stage, with trapeze-shaped coats styled over taped, technical silk inner shells; ripstop anoraks are crafted from wool; and fine leathers are cut into shirts bonded in cashmere, worn alone or under blazers, while pullovers and thick jumpers form the new outerwear. Indoors and outdoors come together with fluid yet sharp silhouettes that merge functions. Highlights include knit pullovers with integrated bolo ties and elegant tapered trousers that feature utilitarian pocket details. Looks are rounded off with the addition of padded bags, scuba boots, and goggles.
As is typical with Zegna, an organic, earthy colour palette runs through the collection with rust, cream, maroon, grey, brown, black, and khaki forming the basis of the collection. Luxuriously dense fabrics merge technical performance with formal sensibilities, with textures defined by recycled gabardine, scuba wool, wool denim, technical silk, and cashmere.
At home in all environments, Zegna Winter 2022 is the platonic embodiment of Sartori’s vision of a fluid, adaptable men’s wardrobe.
Words by Theo Rosen
