After what seems like a mere minute since the Genevan watch manufacturer set the horological world alight with the release of the ultra limited-edition Tiffany Blue Nautilus earlier this month (with one of the 170 pieces being sold at auction for a massive $6.5 million USD), Patek Philippe is closing out the year in style. Patek’s ‘Advanced Research’ series has been in operation since 2005, representing the pinnacle of watchmaking innovation and technology. Now, the department has released the Patek Philippe Ref. 5750P “Advanced Research” Minute Repeater, a design that features four patents and throws a new complication into the mix.
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The Patek Philippe Ref. 5750P “Advanced Research” Minute Repeater showcases a new all-mechanical sound amplifying system, which adds the fortissimo ‘ff’ module to the Swiss brand’s in-house self-winding calibre R 27. The new module is created with a flexibly suspended sound leaver, suspended on a 0.2mm sapphire crystal, resulting in a chiming sound six times more powerful than normal. For reference, a classic minute repeater can be heard at a distance of 10m away, while the new amplified iteration can be heard from as far as 60m. The fortissimo module also allows for a longer fade-out time, with the maximum duration of the strike (32 strikes at 12:59) being increased from 17-18 seconds to 20-21 seconds.
Additionally, the patented technology allows for versatility in case materials. In a classic minute repeater, the strikes of the hammers create oscillations of the entire watch, making rose gold the best material for sound propagation. However, the fortissimo ‘ff’ amplifier module utilises a rotating system surrounded by an insulated rim that uncouples the amplifier from the movement and routes the sound through four openings at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock in a titanium ring, with the sound eaves exiting through a narrow slot between the caseback and case band. This means that other case materials like platinum, rose gold, yellow gold, or white gold will also achieve the same sound quality.
The former material is notoriously difficult to work with due to its higher material density presenting acoustic challenges, making it the ideal choice for the debut Patek Philippe Ref. 5750P “Advanced Research” Minute Repeater. Additionally, the inaugural timepiece features minute repeater hammers in platinum rather than steel as well as a platinum mini-rotor.
Showcasing the new amplifying system, the Ref. 5750P “Advanced Research” Minute Repeater features a suitably unconventional statement dial. The five-part dial plays host to an openwork motif that draws inspiration from the spoked wheels of vintage cars, with the platinum forming a striking effect against the spiralled black background. The subdial at 6 o’clock comprises a rotating disc with the same openwork motif against a black snailed background and a small marker that serves as a hand. A sapphire crystal caseback displays the hammers and gongs of the minute repeater, as well as the sound lever in the shape of a tuning fork that carries the transparent oscillating wafer of the fortissimo amplifier system. Adding a touch of vibrance, the timepiece is presented on a shiny orange alligator strap with black contrast seams and a platinum fold-over clasp.
Priced at 590000 CHF (approx $889000 AUD), the Patek Philippe Ref. 5750P “Advanced Research” Minute Repeater is not the most affordable of watches. However, we dare say it may be easier (and less expensive) to get on your wrist than the much-hyped Tiffany Blue Nautilus. And, it’s a whole lot more innovative.
Words by John Deckard
