The words ‘Chinese watch’ are often uttered in a derisive tone, used somewhat sneeringly to connote cheap manufacturing, mediocre construction, and even ‘fake’ versions of well-known Swiss watches. However, China can not only produce a good mechanical watch, but also supplies reliable movements to a vast number of microbrands as well as parts—whether they be the case, crown, or even the spring bars—to traditional watchmaking countries (*cough* Switzerland). Notably, Tianjin-based company Seagull produces over five million mechanical movements a year, making it the largest manufacturer in the world.
That said, the Chinese influence on watchmaking isn’t all ‘affordable’ watches and componentry, with the republic home to a fledgling haute horology scene. While the Chinese watch scene is far younger than those of countries like Japan and Germany, there are select Chinese watch brands and Chinese watchmakers changing perceptions around the ‘made in China’ label. One such independent brand is Atelier Wen. Founded with a desire to celebrate Chinese culture, Atelier Wen pieces have an openly Chinese aesthetic and are—proudly—made in China. Similarly, Shenzhen-based watch brand CIGA Design caused an upset at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2021 when its Blue Planet timepiece beat out five other (well-known) contenders in the Challenge Watch category.
The best Chinese watch brands in 2024
From the most prolific manufacturer to rising independents, these are the best Chinese watch brands challenging preconceptions of the country’s watchmaking industry.
1. Atelier Wen
Founded with the mission of celebrating and elevating perceptions of Chinese culture and craftsmanship, Atelier Wen creates watches that are proudly made in China and boast an unmistakably Chinese aesthetic. Employing both Chinese and French artisans, Atelier Wen designs feature traditional crafts like porcelain work and guilloché; the latter performed by Master Cheng, China’s sole guilloché master artisan. The Atelier Wen Perception timepiece unites the stainless steel integrated bracelet sports watch aesthetic with the lines and shapes present in Chinese architecture to create a timepiece that represents a solid value proposition in comparison to its Swiss counterparts while offering something unique in and of itself.
Established in: 2017
Founders: Robin Tallendier and Wilfried Buiron
Notable models: Perception, Porcelain Odyssey
2. Celadon
While he was born in Singapore and studied in London, it was a move to Shanghai post-university that prompted him to start Celadon. The brand is split into two sub-brands, Celadon HH and Maison Celadon. The former sees elaborate Chinese—and sometimes western—scenes take place on the dial in intricate hand-crafted enamel work. The timepieces are made-to-order and are powered by a hand-wound movement by master watchmaker Lin Yong Hua which features a high level of hand-finishing, including Chinese calligraphic engraving. Meanwhile, Maison Celadon represents a more affordable option; featuring an oil-pressed guilloché dial and a decorated hand-wound movement made by the Beijing Watch Manufactory.
Established in: 2012
Founder: Benjamin Chee
Notable models: Celadon HH Century, Maison Celadon Imperial
3. CIGA Design
Founded in 2012 by industrial designer Zhang Jianming, CIGA Design—or China International Great Art Design—is known for its decidedly contemporary, sometimes avant garde takes on mechanical watchmaking. Sitting at an affordable price point, CIGA Design timepieces include a skeletonised mechanical take on an Apple Watch and the Blue Planet world timer which won the prestigious GPHG Challenge Watch Prize in 2021.
Established in: 2012
Founder: Zhang Jianming
Notable models: Blue Planet
4. Memorigin
Hong Kong-based manufacture Memorigin is solely dedicated to the design and production of tourbillons. Uniting oriental design influences with western watchmaking style, Memorigin timepieces showcase a distinct Hong Kong aesthetic, with watches featuring artwork inspired by the Tang Dynasty as well as qinghua (the signature Chinese blue and white porcelain). While Memorigin uses both local and imported componentry, all movements are produced in-house with watches designed by Hong Kong designers and collectors.
Established in: 2011
Founder: William Shum
Notable models: Twelve Constellations, Fair Lady Series, The Blue-and-White Tourbillon
5. Beijing Watch Factory
One of China’s oldest watch brands, Beijing Watch Factory was founded in 1958 and is known for its unique handcrafted watches, as well as its in-house movement and componentry. Continually investing in research and development, Beijing Watch Factory manufactures movements for other Chinese and international watch brands, with its movements used in Maison Celadon’s timepieces. That said, it also makes use of Swiss mechanical movements in certain timepieces. Beijing Watch Factory offers several lines, specialising in classically designed dress watches with eastern and oriental influences. Highlights include the Silk Whisper collection which features actual embroidery on the dial and the Bladelegant collection which sees classic yet striking dress watches make use of the brand’s in-house hand-winding tourbillon movement.
Established in: 1958
Notable collections: Silk Whisper, Blagelegant, Classic
6. Seagull
Seagull watches is inextricably linked to the history of Chinese watchmaking. Produced in the Tianjin watch factory established in 1955, the first watches to bear the Seagull name were released in 1992. The most prolific producer (and exporter) of mechanical movements in the world, Seagull’s own lineup comprises affordable contemporary and classic mechanical watches. In addition to its more standard automatic movements, Seagull also produces tourbillon and double tourbillon movements—at a fraction of the price of its European counterparts. The most famous timepiece from the brand is the Seagull 1963 Chronograph, which was originally issued to the Chinese air force and powered by the ST19 movement. Today, that same movement is used by many chronograph-producing microbrands.
Established in: 1992
Notable models: 1963 Chronograph
7. Behrens
Founded by four watch lovers in Shenzhen, China, Behrens works to create atypical watches with a point of difference. While the brand was officially founded in 2012, it wasn’t until 2018 that it released its first timepieces, debuting with the Star Trek and Navigator. The Behrens Apolar is the first timepiece to showcase the relative relationship between the Earth and moon when the stars are in motion; while the Project One pays homage to Chinese spaceflight by displaying the rotation of Earth and Mars alongside each other. If you’re a fan of MB&F, you need to check out Behrens.
Established in: 2012
Founders: Lin Bingqiang, Eric So,
Notable models: Apolar, Project One, Rotary
8. Koncise
For lovers of artistic dials, Beijing-based brand Koncise is a must-know brand. The Chinese watch brand focuses on intricate hand-painted enamel dials; an art that was embraced by the country upon introduction in the 17th century. Koncise watches incorporate Chinese cultural references in their enamelwork, as well as elaborate nature-inspired scenes. Each Koncise dial takes over three months to execute by the brand’s skilled enameling craftspeople. Beneath the dial, Koncise watches are powered by Swiss ETA movements.
Established in: 2015
Founder: Kong Ling Jun
Best for: enamel dials
9. Kiu Tai Yu
Late Chinese watchmaker Kiu Tai Yu is credited with being the first watchmaker in Asia to produce a tourbillon in 1990 and made history as the first Asian member of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI) the following year. In 1993, he released his most exciting invention; the Mystery Tourbillon which saw an oscillating balance wheel make one revolution a minute and was devoid of a case and bridge. In its place was a clear sapphire plate that functioned as the upper bridge while a platform under the balance wheel acted as the cage. The construction method has since been adopted by the likes of Zenith and Montblanc.
Established in: 1980s
Founder: Kiu Tai Yu
Notable models: Mystery Tourbillon
10. LYH Watches
Founded by independent watchmaker Lin Yong Hua, LYH Watches are laden with both technical prowess and distinct character. Designed for music lovers, the LYH Vinyl Record sees a vinyl record player recreated atop the dial, complete with a tonearm surfing the record plate that houses the hours and minutes. An exhibition caseback displays the in-house hand-winding movement, beautifully decorated with musical symbols. Other key releases include the Dragonfly Man, which sees the hours and minutes printed on separate rotating concentric discs; and the Wirepuller, a skeletonised timepiece with an in-house dual power movement with a power reserve of three days. His innovative watchmaking has earned Lin Yong Hua membership with the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants, which counts the likes of Philippe Dufour, Hajime Asaoka, Svend Andersen, and François-Paul Journe as members.
Established in: 2012
Founder: Lin Yong Hua
Notable models: Vinyl Record, Dragonfly Man
11. Qin Gan
Second generation horologist Qin Gan began his career as an artist and graphic designer, while learning the craft of watchmaking from his father. While he was initially discouraged from pursuing watchmaking full-time due to the advent of quartz watches in the 1970s, Gan began crafting his own watches with traditional Chinese paintings on the dial in the 2000s. In 2017, he created a prototype called the Dragonfly Automation, a timepiece that features an offset dial, exposed running gear, and a mechanically fluttering dragonfly, controlled by a pusher in the caseband. Until 2019, Gan was solely working on prototypes. His first official release was the Pastorale, an elegant three-handed model with a hand-finished grained sterling silver dial and blued hands. The movement within is based on the vintage Longines 30L, with all components manufactured by a specialist in Hong Kong and hand-finished by Gan himself.
Established in: 2014
Founder: Qin Gan
Notable models: Pastorale, Dragonfly Automation
Other watch brands by country
Join us as we venture out of Switzerland to find the best watch brands in countries often overlooked.
- The 12 Best Japanese Watch Brands To Know
- Don’t Sleep On These German Watch Brands
- The Best British Watch Brands Are Doing Things Differently
Enjoyed this article? Why not check out our Ultimate Guide To Watches here; covering everything from the anatomy of a watch to watch styles and complication
Words by Theo Rosen
