As one third of the holy trinity of horology, Vacheron Constantin’s Watches & Wonders 2024 releases are hotly anticipated. Not one to indiscriminately jump on trends, the Maltese Cross does things on their own right. Case in point: while green has been the dial shade du jour for several years, Vacheron Constantin has only now introduced the verdant hue into its Overseas lineup. Elsewhere, the lauded Swiss manufacture releases the most complicated watch ever, as well as a watch that disperses fragrance as its wearer moves. Lots to explore and lots to love — let’s get into it.
Patrimony Manual Winding
The underrated minimalist icon that is the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony celebrates its 20th anniversary this year. Naturally, the manufacture is honouring the occasion with the addition of three new references. The first two references are both Patrimony Manual Winding models; one white gold and the other rose gold. The slightly smaller case size (down from 40mm) makes it sit better on more wrists, with both models boasting a dial with a vintage silver-toned sunburst finish. In line with the model’s elegant, somehwat retro aesthetic, the closed caseback invites owners to engrave the timepiece with a meaningful message or design.
Model: Patrimony Manual Winding
Case size: 39mm
Movement: 1440 (manual winding)
Patrimony Moonphase Retrograde Date
The third addition to the collection sees the minimalist style bestowed with a moonphase and retrograde date function. Dressed in rose gold, the case creates a subtle two-tone effect with the vintage silver-toned dial. The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Moonphase Retrograde Date features a moonphase aperture at 6 o’clock (designed to correspond with the exact 29 day, 12 hour, and 45 minute cycle of the moon) which requires only one correction every 122 years, as well as a retrograde date display on the upper half of the dial.
Model: Moonphase Retrograde Date
Case size: 42.5mm
Movement: 2460 R31L (automatic)
The Berkley Grand Complication
One of the most innovative releases out of Watches & Wonders 2024 is not in fact a wristwatch. The result of 11 years of research and development (including a year solely devoted to assembly), the Vacheron Constantin The Berkley Grand Complication marks the first Chinese perpetual calendar and boasts 63 complications, making it the world’s most complicated watch (surpassing the manufacture’s of reference 57260 which previously held the title). The double-sided calibre 3752 comprises 2877 components, with complications including a Gregorian perpetual calendar, Chinese perpetual calendar, astronomical indications, split-seconds chronograph, alarm functions, and a grand sonnerie. The case is crafted from white gold and measures in at 98mm (it’s not easy being complicated).
Model: The Berkley Grand Complication (ref. 9901C/000G-B472)
Case size: 98mm
Movement: 3752 (manual winding)
Overseas
The ever-popular Overseas lineup blends sporty and elegant codes, with the addition of four new references in rose gold. Marking the first time green has graced the dial of an Overseas model, Vacheron Constantin adds two time-only references; a diamond-set 35mm and classic 41mm model. Both timepieces come on an integrated rose gold bracelet, with a quick-release system making it easy to swap out for a leather or rubber strap.
Model: Overseas 4605V/200R-B969 (35mm) and 4520V/210R-B967 (41mm)
Case size: 35mm and 41mm
Movement: automatic 1088/1 (35mm) and automatic 5100 (41mm)
Overseas Dual-Time and Overseas Chronograph
The rose gold-on-green treatment extends onto the Overseas Dual-Time and Overseas Chronograph timepieces, with the sunburst effect on the dial looking particularly striking on the latter. The Overseas Dual-Time represents Vacheron Constantin’s elegant alternative to the numerous GMT models on the market, with this style destined for the wrists of well-heeled frequent flyers.
Model: Overseas Dual-Time (7920V/210R-B965) and Overseas Chronograph (5520V/210R-B966)
Case size: 41mm (Dual-Time) and 42.5mm (Chronograph)
Movement: 5110 DT (Dual-Time) and 5200 (Chronograph)
Overseas Tourbillon
A timeless regulatory mechanism meets a contemporary material in the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon. Crafted from titanium, the durable, lightweight material is a natural fit for the sporty model, with the soft grey hue complementing the blue dial; a shade that’s become a signature for the Overseas series. The tourbillon at 6 o’clock features a 22k gold peripheral oscillating weight which winds the movement and ensures over three days of power reserve.
Model: Overseas Tourbillon (6000V/210T-H032)
Case size: 42.5mm
Movement: 2160 (automatic)
Égérie and Égérie Moon Phase
Haute horology meets haute couture in the newest Égérie and Égérie Moon Phase references. The first Égérie Pleats of Time is a concept watch that features a rose gold case with a diamond-set bezel, which plays host to a lilac mother-of-pearl dial with a couture-inspired pleats pattern. The timepiece is made in collaboration with Paris-based designer Yiqing Yin, who in turn called upon master perfumer Dominique Ropion to create a dedicated fragrance which is encapsulated within the strap and released in tandem with wrist movements. It’s presented on a bespoke strap woven with embroidery and incorporating mother-of-pearl shards.
Also created in collaboration with Yiqing Yin, the Égérie Moon Phase reflects the designer’s stylistic universe through its lilac tones and mother-of-pearl dial with a ‘pleated’ central element. It’s accompanied by three interchangeable straps in colours developed by Yin.
Model: Égérie Pleats of Time (concept only) and Égérie Moon Phase (8005F/000R-H030)
Case size: 37mm
Movement: 1088 L (automoatic)
Grand Lady Kalla
Nodding to an archival piece from 1979, the Grand Lady Kalla is a dazzling haute joaillerie piece that can be worn as both a necklace and a bracelet. Looking to art deco design codes, the sautoir necklace features onyx and diamonds as well as pearl tassels, while the white gold watch case itself is adorned with 57 faceted emerald-cut diamonds.
Model: Grand Lady Kalla (1208J/118G-H094)
Case size: 19.4mm x 30.1mm
Movement: 1212 (quartz)
Albert Review will be covering Watches & Wonders 2024 as it unfolds. For more novelties, horological news, and new releases, check out our Watches & Wonders coverage here.
Words by Theo Rosen
