With the backdrop of the Eiffel Tower and a front row laden with famous faces like Kate Moss, Amber Valetta, Carla Bruni Sarkozy, Haley Bieber, Rosie Huntington-Whitely, and BlackPink’s Rosé, Saint Laurent creative director Anthony Vaccarello presented a cinematic collection defined by radical fluidity.
Contemporary dancer Martha Graham served as partial inspiration for Saint Laurent SS23, with the tubular head-to-toe sheath she wore in 1930 changing the face of fashion and culture at the time. Yves Saint Laurent was heavily influenced by the move, from the range of hooded, diaphanous chiffon dresses he created for a collaboration with Claude Lalanne in 1969, to an haute couture show in 1985 wherein several models sported prolonged fabric over the head.
The hooded capuche pieces created by Yves Saint Laurent in the 1980s served as a reference point for Vaccarello. The hoods are teamed with sinuous silk jersey knits, with elegant floor-length dresses grounded by masculine outerwear rendered in wool. Best worn with a slight swagger in one’s step, garments are glamorous without trying too hard.
Elsewhere, sophistication is conveyed through a sheer tank dress, cashmere pants, and pyjama-inspired satin looks complemented by sculptural gold and wooden jewellery.
Words by AR Staff
