Over his two year tenure at the helm of Schiaparelli, Daniel Roseberry has made a strong case for the surreal, resurrecting several of Elsa Schiaparelli’s most iconic silhouettes and taking us on a Lynchian holiday. Now, a sense of entrapment and uncertainty has Roseberry looking further than the surreal and into the heavens for Schiaparelli Haute Couture SS22.
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A means of escapism, Roseberry imagines a high priestess preceding over the heavens, simultaneously goddess and alien; a being whose clothing defied the rules of gravity. Deeming colour somehow “wrong” amongst the devastation the past two years have caused, Roseberry makes fo with shades of black, white, and gold. Ditto with “big silhouettes, glorious poufs of fabric, huge volume,” which the creative director claimed “felt hollow.” Instead, Roseberry took an elemental approach, opting for rigorous tailoring and sharp silhouettes that were sculptural rather than voluminous.
Aerodynamic bustiers and jackets reign supreme, juxtaposed against clean shorts tripped in ecru silk faille. Meanwhile sashes, skirts, and tailcoats made of satin form a graceful foundation for the sculptural forms crafted from Schiaparelli gold. An otherworldly dress takes shape solely in gold, while the material also adorns cone bras and oversized decal, and encircles a model like Saturn’s ring.
For Schiaparelli, Schiaparelli Haute Couture SS22 is comparatively understated. However, as Roseberry puts it: “I design in order to make people feel something. When clothes and craft and hair and music and the wearer are in harmony together, when they are all trying to communicate something, we can be reminded why we love fashion—why I love fashion… It’s because, when it’s done right, when it has something to tell us, it can help us feel the inarticulable. It’s because it still has the power to move us.”
Words by Esmé Duggan
