Swiss luxury watchmaker Patek Philippe is no stranger to complications. While the Patek Philippe Nautilus often steals (or steels, if you’ll pardon the pun) the spotlight as one of the best steel sports watches of all time, the Genevan watchmaker is renowned for its mastery in complications. Now, Patek Philippe has reaffirmed itself at the forefront of complicated watchmaking, with the release of three new complicated chronographs.
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Patek Philippe 5204R-011
First off, Patek Philippe riffs off its 5204R, a split-seconds chronograph perpetual calendar. For the past five years, the timepiece has been available in rose gold iterations, wither with silver or ebony opaline dials; the former with a chocolate brown alligator strap and the latter with a rose gold bracelet. Now, the Swiss watchmaker introduces a new variation, the 5204R-011 which features a slate grey dial and strap, lending the timepiece an understated elegance that allows the complexity of the movement to shine. The timepiece comes with interchangeable sapphire crystal and solid casebacks. We’d opt for the former – the hand-wound calibre CHR 29-535 is a movement you’ll want to see.
Model: Patek Philippe 5204R-011
Price: $309,893 USD
Patek Philippe 5905/1A-001
A flyback chronograph, the 5905 initially launched in 2015 in platinum, with 2019 seeing a release in rose gold. Now, the Patek Philippe 5905/1A-001 takes on a sporty look in steel, with a three-link bracelet. A decidedly contemporary take on a traditional complication, the Patek Philippe 5905/1A-001 features a sunburst olive dial which plays host to a central chronograph, oversized 60-minute subdial, and three day/date/month fixtures arranged in an arc over the top.
Model: Patek Philippe 5905/1A-001
Price: $59,140 USD
Patek Philippe 5930P-001
Arguably the most complicated of the trio, the Patek Philippe 5930P-001 is a self-winding world time flyback chronograph. Deriving inspiration from a unique model from 1940, the 5930 was initially launched in 2016 in white gold with a blue dial and matching strap. Taking on a sportier approach, the 5290-001 utilises the covetable green that swept through Watches & Wonders earlier this year for its strap and dial, combining it with platinum. Patek Philippe has been responsible for some of the most masterfully executed world time complications, and this iteration is no exception. Cities names are printed in green around the disk, with the world time function simultaneously displaying the time in all 24 time zones. The green dial is rendered in a guilloched circular pattern and houses a 30-minute counter at 6 o’clock.
Model: Patek Philippe 5930P-001
Price: $100,538 USD
Words by Theo Rosen
