- Universal Genève has relaunched under management by Breitling
- The maison ushers in its vision of elegant contemporary watchmaking with new releases across both men’s and women’s lines
- The debut timepiece lineup includes the iconic Gérald Genta-designed Polerouter, Compax, Cabriolet, Disco Mini, and several couture-inspired jewellery watches
One of the most lauded manufactures in the world, Universal Genève was founded in Le Loche, Switzerland in 1894 by Numa-Emile Descombes and Ulysse-Georges Perret; beginning its life as Universal Watch before relocating to a new headquarters on Geneva’s Rue du Rhône and taking the first steps to becoming the brand we know—and have missed until—today.
Under the leadership of Raoul Perret, who took the reins in 1932, Universal Genève became known as ‘Le Couturier de la Montre’, or the ‘watch couturier’, for its functional approach to beauty.
“For Universal Genève, Le Couturier de la Montre was never just a tagline: it defined the maison, capturing its creative spirit and unique sense of craftsmanship,” said Georges Kern, CEO of Universal Genève and Breitling. “Now, the sleeping beauty of watchmaking is awakened, opening a new chapter in the long history of one of watchmaking’s most beloved names.”
Indeed, the brand has risen from the ashes and done so with aplomb. Under the leadership of Partners Group, the parent company of Breitling, and CEO Georges Kern, Universal Genève is officially back. The relaunch to public follows several tribute watches, including a trio of special edition Polerouter watches celebrating the model’s 70th anniversary in 2024 and a Tribute to Compax with Nina Rindt.
Now, the brand is debuting with four collections in one fell swoop. The Polerouter, Compax, and Cabriolet represent revivals of previous models, while the Disco Mini introduces an entirely new style into the mix. Taking a couture-inspired approach, these lines form part of the maison’s ‘prêt-à-porter’ collections, which are permanent collections which reinterpret the brand’s core icons. There are also ‘capsule’ collections, limited seasonal editions of the maison’s most emblematic timepieces which explore variations in materials and decorative techniques; ‘couture creations’, which represent the “ultimate expression of the maison’s vision of watchmaking as métier d’art;” and ‘signature timepieces’, which are limited-edition reinterpretations of archival pieces and sit somewhere between the maison’s prêt-à-porter and capsule collections in character.
Below, we unpack all the new releases from the relaunched Universal Genève brand.
The Polerouter
Much has been said of the Universal Genève Polerouter over the past few years. Designed by a 23-year-old Gérald Genta in 1954 for wear on the new Douglas DC-6B Scandinavian Airlines from Copenhagen to Los Angeles—the first transatlantic route flying over the North Pole and cutting down travel time between Europe and North America—the Polerouter has long been lauded as a seminal timepiece in Gérald Genta’s oeuvre.
The design was distinguished by its curved dial, outer dial tension ring, and twisted lugs. Initially launched with a bumper automatic movement, it later incorporated the Microtor Calibre 215 in 1958, with the integrated rotor allowing for a slimmer case.
The new Polerouter models span both the prêt-à-porter and capsule collections. Each model bears the signature crosshair dial, twisted lugs, and outer dial ring, albeit with reworked details to enhance comfort and bring them into the modern era. All models are also powered by the new calibre UG-110, an automatic microrotor movement that’s just 3.8mm thick, shock-resistant, and has a power reserve of 72 hours.
The permanent prêt-à-porter collection introduces five references across two sizes—37mm and 39mm—each of which see the crosshair design applied to a domed dial with subtle gradient finish. The outer dial ring features both matte and polished finishes, while the twisted lugs have been further refined.
Polerouter Date (39mm)
The 39mm Polerouter has a date window at 3 o’clock, while the 37mm variant is time-only. The models arrive in a variety of material and colour combinations — the 39mm Polerouter comes in stainless steel with a blue dial, stainless steel with a black dial, and rose gold with a brown dial. Both stainless steel models are presented on a stainless steel brick bracelet and come with an interchangeable alligator leather strap, while the rose gold model arrives on a brown alligator leather strap.
Price: $16,000CHF (UGPO001, UGPO002); $32,000CHF (UGPO003)
Universal Genève Collection: prêt-à-porter
Availability: non-limited
Model: Polerouter Date (ref. UGPO001, UGPO002, UGPO003)
Case size: 39mm
Movement: UG-110 (automatic)
Water resistance: 10ATM
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, date
Power reserve: 72 hours
Polerouter (37mm)
Meanwhile, the two prêt-à-porter 37mm models are available in stainless steel with a black dial and rose gold with a mother-of-pearl dial and a gem-set bezel, with both presented on an alligator leather strap.
Price: $14,000CHF (UGPO007); 34,000CHF (UGPO009)
Universal Genève Collection: prêt-à-porter
Availability: non-limited
Model: Polerouter (ref. UGPO007, UGPO009)
Case size: 37mm
Movement: UG-110 (automatic)
Water resistance: 10ATM
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds
Power reserve: 72 hours
Polerouter Hardstone
In the capsule collection, there are six references across two distinct designs. The Polerouter Hardstone pairs a 39mm case in either stainless steel or rose gold with a stone dial — there’s stainless steel with lapis lazuli, rose gold with bull’s eye, or rose gold with tiger’s eye stone marquetry.
Price: $20,500CHF to $65,100CHF
Universal Genève Collection: capsule
Availability: seasonal
Model: Polerouter (ref. UGPO004, UGPO005, UGPO006)
Case size: 39mm
Movement: UG-110 (automatic)
Water resistance: 10ATM
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds
Power reserve: 72 hours
Polerouter Camaïeu
Elsewhere, the Polerouter Camaïeu collection explores an interplay of colour, encased in 37mm stainless steel or rose gold cases with gem-set bezels. There’s stainless steel with an aqua mint dial, rose gold with a toffee dial, and rose gold with a berry dial — each accented by diamond-set bezels.
Price: $17000CHF to $40,320CHF
Universal Genève Collection: capsule
Availability: seasonal
Model: Polerouter (ref. UGPO0010, UGPO0011, UGPO0012)
Case size: 37mm
Movement: UG-110 (automatic)
Water resistance: 10ATM
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds
Power reserve: 72 hours
The Compax
A chronograph that became popular after being worn by Finnish model Nina Rindt to time her husband’s Formula One laps in the 1960s, the Compax returns to the fray. Remaining true to the original model, the revived Universal Genève offers both archive-faithful takes in the prêt-à-porter collection and playful, fashion-led variations in the capsule collection. All new Compax models are powered by the new calibre UG-200, an automatic microtor movement with a column-wheel chronograph, vertical clutch, and traversing balance bridge, that has a power reserve of 72 hours.
Compax
The core prêt-à-porter line comprises three references, each in a 39.5mm case and outlined by ceramic bezels. There are two stainless steel models, with either a ‘panda’ or ‘reverse panda’ dial, and—for the first time in the line’s history—a rose gold model with a midnight blue dial topped with white subdials. They arrive on a vintage-inspired steel bracelet, inspired by the 1960s designs of Gay Frères, and come with an interchangeable alligator leather bund strap with a bund cuff, offering two ways to wear the strap.
Price: $15,500CHF to $38,010CHF
Universal Genève Collection: prêt-à-porter
Availability: non-limited
Model: Compax (ref. UGCO001, UGCO002, UGCO004)
Case size: 39.5mm
Movement: UG-200 (automatic)
Water resistance: 10ATM
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph
Power reserve: 72 hours
Compax Capule Collection
In the capsule collection, a vibrant sartorial-inspired approach dresses the sport chronograph. Drawing inspiration from woven textiles, the maison has employed translucent lacquer to evoke soft linen textures, while the leather straps mimic denim fabric. The exploration of colour extends from the dial onto the ceramic bezel and through to the denim-look leather straps. The models are available in dry lavender, sage green, and brushed indigo — the first two encased in rose gold and the latter in stainless steel.
Price: $18,500CHF to $39,000CHF
Universal Genève Collection: capsule
Availability: seasonal
Model: Compax (ref. UGCO005, UGCO006, UGCO007)
Case size: 39.5mm
Movement: UG-200 (automatic)
Water resistance: 10ATM
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph
Power reserve: 72 hours
The Cabriolet
For its third relaunch model, Universal Genève has revived an art deco icon. While the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso gets the lion’s share of attention for its art deco style and reversible nature—and to be fair, they did it first and have been consistently operating since—Universal Genève has its own reversible model which launched not long after. Debuting in 1933 as the Ideo, it was conceived as a reversible watch designed to protect the dial through a case with a flipping mechanism (that flips vertically, rather than horizontally). The case and dial exuded the art deco style, with the dial featuring Arabic numerals designed by French painter and typeface designer Cassandre and visual cues by Polish painter Tamara de Lempicka.
The new Cabriolet offering spans four prêt-à-porter releases and one capsule collection release. Each model has a 45mm x 24.2mm case with its design cues and movement remaining true to the original, powered by the calibre UG-111, a manually wound movement with a 72-hour power reserve.
Central to the design of the original Cabriolet was Bifur, the typeface designed by Cassandre. Originally developed for the French artist’s 1930s posters, the visually distinct typeface contrasts line weights to create the illusion of being simultaneously heavy and light. The new Cabriolet models feature Bifur numerals as lacquer inlay, embedded into the glossy dial and complemented by the alternating brushed and polished surfaces of the case.
Cabriolet
The four prêt-à-porter releases include a stainless steel model with a blue dial, rose gold with a diamond-set bezel and red dial, rose gold with a white dial, and rose gold with a black dial. The stainless steel and rose gold with black dial variants come on a nine-row bracelet (with the material matching the case), while the other two variants are presented on an alligator leather strap.
When flipped over, the reverse side of the Cabriolet reveals a transparent caseback, allowing the manually wound calibre UG-111 to be admired. The caseback can also be customised with engraved initials or a bespoke miniature painting.
Price: $9800CHF to $50,000CHF
Universal Genève Collection: prêt-à-porter
Availability: non-limited
Model: Cabriolet (ref. UGCA006, UGCA004, UGCA001, UGCA002)
Case size: 45mm x 24.2mm
Movement: UG-111 (manually wound)
Water resistance: 10ATM
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds
Power reserve: 72 hours
Cabriolet de Lempicka
On the capsule collection side, the new Cabriolet de Lempicka uses the reverse side of the dial as a canvas for Tamara de Lempicka’s most storied works of art. Executed by renowned miniaturist Isabelle Villa, the timepieces within the capsule collection arrive in a rose gold case with a velvet teal dial. The reverse side displays one of three of de Lempicka’s paintings; either Portrait of Mrs Bush, Tamara in Green Bugatti, or Docteur Boucard. The collection is limited to 15 examples, with five pieces across each artwork created.
Price: $51,100CHF
Universal Genève Collection: capsule
Availability: seasonal; 15 examples across three designs (five per artwork)
Model: Cabriolet de Lempicka (ref. UGCA003)
Case size: 45mm x 24.2mm
Movement: UG-111 (manually wound)
Water resistance: 10ATM
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds
Power reserve: 72 hours
The Disco Mini
While the previous three models have been reinterpretations of archival pieces, the new Disco Mini represents an entirely new model. Drawing upon the maison’s prestige in women’s watch designs, the Disco Mini is designed as a couture watch for everyday wear. Taking its name from the iconic Disco Volante—or ‘flying saucer’—watches, it puts forward a sleek, lugless design that allows its Clou de Paris guilloché or pavé diamond-set bezel to shine.
The Disco Mini debuts with two references in the prêt-à-porter collection and two capsule collection editions. Each of the quartet is powered by the calibre UG-300, a quartz movement with an approximate battery life of 7 years.
Disco Mini
The main prêt-à-porter line comprises two 28mm models; a rose gold edition with a Clou de Paris guilloché bezel and a white gold model with a pavé diamond-set bezel. Both are paired with a coordinating flexible bangle that draws aesthetic cues from vintage bracelets from the late 1940s. The bracelets have a concealed opening mechanism at the head of the watch, with the bracelet able to be swapped out for an alligator leather strap (dark brown for the rose gold and blueberry purple for the white gold).
Price: $16,000CHF to $30,000CHF
Universal Genève Collection: prêt-à-porter
Availability: non-limited
Model: Disco Mini (ref. UGMD001, UGMD003, UGMD002, UGMD004)
Case size: 28mm
Movement: UG-300 (quartz)
Water resistance: 3ATM
Functions: hours, minutes
Battery life: 7 years
Disco Mini Lace
Equally alluring is the undeniably striking Disco Mini Lace, which sees a 32mm white gold case accentuated with a vintage-inspired diamond-set bezel (resembling lace fabric) framing a delicate blue mother-of-pearl dial. It’s presented on either a flexible white gold bangle or a taupe alligator leather strap.
Price: $39,000CHF
Universal Genève Collection: capsule
Availability: non-limited
Model: Disco Mini (ref. UGMD005, UGMD006)
Case size: 32mm
Movement: UG-300 (quartz)
Water resistance: 3ATM
Functions: hours, minutes
Battery life: 7 years
Couture and signature editions
Finally, the Universal Genève unveils a series of couture and signature editions, which show off the maison’s métier d’art prowess and reinterpret icons from the archives. The maison’s couture creations pay homage to the creativity of the 1950s, defined by a renewal of femininity and expressive design — a movement spearheaded by Christian Dior’s ‘New Look’ in 1947 and carried through by the work of Pierre Balmain, Cristóbal Balenciaga, and Hubert de Givenchy.
Dioramic Couture Edition
Drawing upon a 1956 model originally named the Monodatic but colloquially known as the Dioramic, it was originally distinguished by its thick, flat bezel surrounding a miniature dial. Here, the Dioramic Couture Edition keeps the same tiny dial, but the oversized bezel on the rose gold case becomes domed and features latticework which is embellished with scattered emeralds and champlevé lacquer accents, complementing the jade dial it surrounds.
Price: $POA
Universal Genève Collection: couture
Availability: limited
Model: Dioramic Couture Edition (ref. UGCC002)
Case size: 37mm
Movement: UG-110 (automatic)
Water resistance: 3ATM
Functions: hours, minutes
Power reserve: 72 hours
Cabriolet Couture Edition
Blending horology and jewellery codes, the Cabriolet Couture Edition reimagines the art deco model as a cross between a secret watch and a cuff. Exaggerating the geometric language of the original, the rectangular case is rotated and multiplied to create a sculptural bangle. The dial is concealed behind one of the cases, with each case crafted from white gold and adorned with a herringbone motif rendered in baguette-cut diamonds and sapphires in three shades of blue, echoing the interlacing of threads. This textile effect continues onto the dial, which bears a mother-of-pearl mosaic.
Price: $POA
Universal Genève Collection: couture
Availability: limited
Model: Cabriolet Couture Edition (ref. UGCC001)
Case size: 13mm x 15.55mm
Movement: UG-300 (quartz)
Water resistance: 3ATM
Functions: hours, minutes
Battery life: 7 years
Disco Mini Couture Edition
The maison’s newest design receives a jewellery makeover, courtesy of a rare Austalian blue crystal fire opal dial surrounded by a halo of sapphires, emeralds, and aquamarine stones on the bezel.
Price: $POA
Universal Genève Collection: couture
Availability: limited
Model: Disco Mini Couture Edition (ref. UGCC004)
Case size: 35mm
Movement: UG-300 (quartz)
Water resistance: 3ATM
Functions: hours, minutes
Battery life: 7 years
Disco Maxi Couture Edition
Next, the Disco Mini receives an older, more flashy sibling with the expanded Disco Maxi Couture Edition which sees a 42mm rose gold case play host to a sector style dial that alternates a ruby base with invisibly set baguette-cut diamonds and sapphires in gradiented pink hues. The gradient effect extends onto the case, with baguette-cut sapphires lining the inner ring and contrasting the round sapphires surrounding it. The timepiece is presented on a red alligator leather strap.
Price: $POA
Universal Genève Collection: couture
Availability: limited
Model: Disco Maxi Couture Edition (ref. UGCC003)
Case size: 42mm
Movement: UG-110 (automatic)
Water resistance: 3ATM
Functions: hours, minutes
Power reserve: 72 hours
Dioramic Volante Signature Edition
This contemporary interpretation of the 1956 Monodatic (later known as the Dioramic) sees a small lacquerdial with trapeze-shaped indices framed by the signature wide bezel, this time kept flat and framed with concentric gadroons. A circular aperture on the bezel at 6 o’clock frames the date. The 37mm case is crafted from either stainless steel (with a blue dial) or rose gold (with black dial).
Price: $20,000CHF (UGDI001); $40,425CHF (UGDI002)
Universal Genève Collection: signature
Availability: limited
Model: Dioramic Volante Signature Edition (ref. UGDI001; UGDI002)
Case size: 37mm
Movement: UG-110 (automatic)
Water resistance: 3ATM
Functions: hours, minutes, date
Power reserve: 72 hours
Disco Volante Signature Edition
Rounding out the bunch is the Disco Volante Signature Edition which revisits the lugless flying saucer models of the late 1930s through a contemporary lens. A 45mm stepped case in stainless steel (blue dial) or rose gold (rose gold dial) frames a matte dial with a bicompax crhonograph display, topped with a sapphire box crystal which extends the curves of the silhouette. A transparent caseback reveals the automatic calibre UG-200 within.
Price: $25,500CHF (UGUC001); $44,100CHF (UGUC002)
Universal Genève Collection: signature
Availability: limited
Model: Disco Volante Signature Edition (ref. UGUC001, UGUC002)
Case size: 45mm
Movement: UG-200 (automatic)
Water resistance: 3ATM
Functions: hours, minutes, date
Power reserve: 72 hours
Words by Theo Rosen and T. Angel
