The Zenith Chronomaster Open Boutique Edition Provides A Peek At The El Primero

The Zenith Chronomaster Open Boutique Edition Provides A Peek At The El Primero

Earlier this year, Zenith introduced the revamped Chronomaster Open, which provided an early 2000s style with a contemporary facelift. Introduced by then-CEO Thierry Nataf in 2003, the Chronomaster Open was created with the intention of highlighting what made the Chronomaster — and by extension, Zenith — unique. Namely, the high-frequency El Primero movement introduced in 1969 that marked the world’s first automatic chronograph. The release proved a success and a mainstay in the Zenith lineup to this day.

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The 2022 release aligns the Chronomaster Open with the latest generation of the Chronomaster collection (which also encompasses Original and Sport models). The boutique exclusive edition revisits the tri-colour dial configurated of the A386 which debuted in 1969, albeit with a twist. A vivid shade of blue takes centre stage while the small seconds counter at 9 o’clock is clad in hesalite crystal that allows it to operate as a readable sub-dial while revealing the silicon star-shaped escape wheel beneath. The movement itself has undergone a slight makeover, with circular openings with chamfered edges used in lieu of an applied frame, straighter bridges, and a more modern shade of grey.

If the front escape wheel piques your interest in the movement, you can flip the watch over, with the sapphire crystal exhibition caseback showcasing the El Primero in all its glory. A modified version of the El Primero 3600 movement that debuted in the Chronomaster Sport, the El Primero 3604 features an open star-shaped oscillating mass and delivers a power reserve of 60 hours.

In deference to emerging tastes for modestly proportioned watches, the Zenith Chronomaster Open Boutique Edition has a case size of 39.5mm — compared to the previous 42mm model — and has slimmer lugs and more pronounced polished bevels on the edges. The pump pushers are given rounded trips for an ergonomic finish while the steel bracelet takes its cues from the mixed polished and satin-brushed finishes of the case.

The Zenith Chronomaster Open Boutique Edition is priced at $14,300AUD and is available via the dedicated Australian Zenith e-commerce site, launched early last month.


Words by Theo Rosen