Zenith is feeling the blues for Watches & Wonders 2025. The Le Loche manufacture marks its 160th anniversary this year and to celebrate, it’s bathed some of its most iconic models in blue, the maison’s signature hue. Three of its most recognisable chronographs—each powered by the seminal El Primero movement—are not only dressed in blue but receive a material change; with the limited-edition Chronomaster Sport, Defy Skyline Chronograph, and Pilot Chronograph rendered in ceramic rather than steel, titanium, or precious metal. Elsewhere, a new movement inspired by the manufacture’s founder Georges Favre-Jacot joins the fray.
Below, every Zenith release from Watches & Wonders 2025.
Defy Skyline Chronograph 160th Anniversary Edition
The Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph has become a firm favourite since its introduction in 2024. Acting as a successor to the 1969 Defy, the chronograph slots into the Defy Skyline range, which is the maison’s most contemporary lineup and is defined by its architectural case and faceted bezel. Since its launch, the Defy Skyline Chronograph has solely been offered in steel (although the time-only version has been iterated in titanium). Now, it gets a bold ceramic makeover, with the 42mm case and bracelet crafted from steel in Zenith’s bespoke shade of blue. The hue extends onto the dial, which is engraved with an all-over geometric motif inspired by the brand’s four-pointed star. The brushed and polished finish on the case and links of the ceramic bracelet lends it an aesthetic similar to that of steel, which makes for an interesting visual and textural interplay.
The Defy Skyline Chronograph 160th Anniversary Edition is powered by the El Primero 3600 calibre, a modern take on Zenith’s signature high-frequency automatic chronograph movement. The movement displays 1/10th of a second, with the chronograph seconds hand completing a full revolution every ten seconds (as opposed to every minute like a standard chronograph).
Price: $36,700AUD
Model: Defy Skyline Chronograph 160th Anniversary Edition (ref. 49.9502.3600/51.I001)
Availability: 160 examples
Case size: 42mm
Movement: El Primero 3600 (automatic)
Water resistance: 10ATM
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, 1/10th of a second, 60-minute counter, 60-second counter, date
Power reserve: 60 hours
Pilot Big Date Flyback 160th Anniversary Edition
Introduced in 2023, the Pilot Big Date Flyback has flown under the radar compared to Zenith’s other sporty lines like the Chronomaster and Defy Skyline. A celebration of the maison’s enduring ties to aviation (including accompanying Louis Blériot, the first person to fly across the English Channel in 1909), the Pilot Big Date Flyback is identifiable by its clean, legible design language with oversized Arabic numerals and horizontal grooves on the dial designed to mimic the look of corrugated metal sheets found on classic aircraft fuselages.
Here, the Pilot Big Date Flyback 160th Anniversary Edition continues the blue theme, with the 42.5mm case crafted from micro-blasted blue ceramic and complemented by a grey titanium crown and rectangular pushers. e, dial, and strap. Crafted from micro-blasted ceramic in a new, bright blue shade, the 42.5 mm case is complemented by a titanium crown and rectangular push-pieces. The hands and oversized Arabic numerals on the corrugated dial are coated with luminescent material, to ensure optimal legibility under all conditions.
The Pilot Big Date Flyback 160th Anniversary Edition is powered by the El Primero 3652 calibre, another evolution of Zenith’s formative high-frequency automatic chronograph. In line with traditional aviation timekeeping, the flyback function allows pilots to reset and restart the chronograph with a single push, streamlining calculations by doing away with the usual three-push start-stop-reset process.
The timepiece is presented on a blue Cordura-effect rubber strap and an additional white Cordura-effect strap, each secured with a steel triple-folding clasp.
Price: $24,700AUD
Model: Pilot Big Date Flyback 160th Anniversary Edition (ref. 49.4002.3652/51.I009)
Availability: 160 examples
Case size: 42.5mm
Movement: El Primero 3652 (automatic)
Water resistance: 10ATM
Functions: hours, minutes, date, flyback chronograph
Power reserve: 60 hours
Chronomaster Sport 160th Anniversary Edition
The Chronomaster Sport has become Zenith’s flagship sports watch. For the first time, it’s rendered in blue ceramic, with the lines of the 41mm case accented by alternating brushed and polished surfaces. The bold shade of blue extends onto the dial, which has a sunray finish and houses the luxury watch brand’s signature overlapping tricolour subdials. The bezel of the timepiece features alternating shades of dark and light blue, which contribute to the timepieces sporty chic aesthetic. Like the Defy Skyline Chronograph, the Chronomaster Sport 160th Anniversary Edition is powered by the El Primero 3600.
Price: $35,100AUD
Model: Chronomaster Sport 160th Anniversary Edition (ref. 49.3102.3600/51.M3100)
Availability: 160 examples
Case size: 41mm
Movement: El Primery 3600 (automatic)
Water resistance: 10ATM
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, 1/10th of a second, 60-minute counter, 60-second counter, date
Power reserve: 60 hours
G.F.J.
For its final act, Zenith has reintroduced an iconic movement; the calibre 135. Inspired by Zenith founder Georges Favre-Jacot’s quest for precision, the reintroduced movement is housed in an elegant new timepiece dubbed the ‘G.F.J.’. The original movement was notable for being the most awarded movement from the golden age of observatory chronometer competitions, with Zenith having taken part in these since 1897 and racking up a frankly ridiculous 2333 chronometry prizes along the way. The calibre 135 stood apart from the maison’s other prize-winning movements; created by Ephrem Jobin at the behest of Charles Ziegler, technical director of Zenith, the movement was expressly developed to compete in chronometry competitions at the Observatories of Neuchâtel, Geneva, Kew Teddington, and Besançon. Its original name is dervived from its dimensions — 13 lines (30mm) long and 5mm thick. It was produced from 1949 to 1962 in commercial (135) and competition (135-O) variants; the latter of which was awarded a record-breaking 235 chronometry prizes.
Now, Zenith brings the calibre 135 into the 21st century, retaining the dimensions, aesthetic, and architecture of its predecessor while being re-engineered to make use of technical advancements. The barrel now delivers a 72-hour power reserve (up from 40 hours in the 1950s) and drives a new gear train with optimised tooth architecture for improved efficiency. The new G.F.J. movement incorporates the double arrow-shaped regulator of the 135-O which allows for precise adjustment, and adds a stop-second mechanism for more accurate time setting. The balance staff is now protected by spring-mounted jewel settings, with the COSC-certified movement regulated to be precise within +/-2 seconds per day.
Here, the movement is housed within the refined G.F.J., a 39.15mm platinum dress watch which exudes 1950s charm. The platinum case features a stepped bezel and curved stepped lugs, with its sculptural lines enhanced by alternating brushed and polished surfaces. The blue dial of the timepiece nods to Zenith’s celestial connections; the inner sector is crafted from deep blue Lapis Lazuli which is flecked like the starry night sky. It’s overlapped with a mother-of-pearl small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock and surrounded by a brick guilloché pattern which adds depth and intrigue to the dial. The faceted hour markers are crafted from white gold, as is the hand-applied beaded minutes track.
Price: $78,400AUD
Model: G.F.J. (ref. 40.1865.0135/51.C200)
Availability: 160 examples
Case size: 39.15mm
Movement: 135 (manually wound)
Water resistance: 5ATM
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds
Power reserve: 72 hours
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Words by Henry Blake
