Brucie didn’t have long to live. He flipped and floundered, gasping for water as we watched helplessly from the sidelines. Clutching insufficiently long sticks, we attempted to reach across the aquatic shrubs and flip the surprisingly dense lilypad he was struggling atop over, but our efforts proved ineffectual. Surrounded by air he could not breathe, we steeled ourselves against the inevitable and prepared to watch Brucie die, hoping his end would be mercifully quick. As we contemplated a last ditch effort to wade into the waist-deep pond, we spotted a blessing in the form of two men in navy coveralls, carrying rather large sticks. Much to their confusion, we gesticulated wildly for half a minute, pointing at the pond and miming flipping motions before a Land Rover pulled up to the scene. Ignoring the smirks and mild eye rolls of the slightly damp Americans on board, we asked the staff to translate. Without hesitating, our saviours in blue charged into the water and dislodged Brucie from the lilypad. He landed in the water with an almost imperceptible plop before swimming away.
Sitting at the confluence of the Ruak and Mekong rivers, most guests don’t visit the Four Seasons Tented Camp for its tiny black koi fish, but for its proximity to—and opportunity to interact with—the country’s gentle giants. Located at the northernmost part of Thailand and bordered by Laos and Myanmar, the Golden Triangle is famed for both its former connection to the opium trade and its natural beauty — the strength of the latter largely superseding the former in reputation. The tented camp is located within the verdant jungle of northern Thailand, around an hour’s drive from Chiang Rai airport or a four- to five-hour drive from the Four Seasons’ sibling resort in Chiang Mai. A fleet of restored vintage Land Rovers ranging from the 1960s to late ‘80s is on call to transport guests from the car park to the resort—as well as around the grounds—but by far the most stylish way to arrive during daylight hours is by trailing down the Ruak river in a traditional longtail boat and sounding the gong thrice—for good luck!—on your way in.
The work of legendary architect and landscape designer Bill Bensley, the Four Seasons Tented Camp unfolds gradually across the landscape, with 15 luxury tents and one two-bedroom Explorer’s Lodge generously spaced out across the site and connected via a brick pathway. The design of the tented camp is such that each tented lodging acclimates to, rather than disrupts, the jungle around it. Here, structures make way for foliage, with the two halves of the expansive resort linked by a vertiginous suspension bridge that presides over the jungle, providing a view of verdant tropical plants as far as the eye can see.
Inside, each tent takes on a genteel safari-style aesthetic. Constructed from sturdy canvas—from the river, their cream canopies peeking out from the greenery are the only hint of civilisation in the jungle—and mounted on teakwood platforms, they recall the expeditions of yesteryear through hardwood floors, leather armchairs, and Thai textiles, accented with vintage compasses and binoculars (the latter comes in handy for spotting elephants in the jungle come sunrise). A rustic hand-hammered deep soaking copper bathtub serves as something of a centrepiece, flanked by copper sinks with (faux) elephant tusk handles. Each of the 15 tents has a distinctive theme; our Elephant Tent was laden with carved wooden tchotchkes of the gentle giants, as well as elephant motifs woven into textiles, crockery, and accent pieces. A generous veranda overlooks the Ruak river, while a rain shower is neatly tucked away to the side; screened for privacy while allowing you to take in the view at all times.
Under any other circumstances, it would be all too easy to wile away the days gazing out at the jungle from the verandah with a drink in hand, or perhaps enjoying the view from the comfort of the aforementioned deep soaking tub. However, at its core, the Four Seasons Tented Camp is about the elephants, and it’s these magnificent giants that have brought us to the remote reaches of the kingdom. The Four Seasons works with the Golden Triangle Asian Elephant Foundation, which focuses on rescuing and caring for elephants that have been made to work on the streets. The rolling hills next to the tented camp play host to an elephant rehabilitation reserve, where a couple dozen elephants roam freely.
On our first morning at the Four Seasons Tented Camp, we don the surprisingly chic provided outfit of a blue denim shirt and trousers, accessorised with waterproof clogs and a colourful woven belt. Accompanied by our guide Khun Tor, we set off on the ‘My Elephant & I’ walk, visiting the elephants in their natural habitat. As we squelch our way through the wilderness, the ground still slightly wet from the rain the night before—our visit coinciding with the country’s monsoon season—Tor tells us that strong bonds are a throughline in the life of each elephant. Indeed, when we first meet Kamool, her companion Jatong is not far behind; the 30- and 50-something-year-old elephants sharing a meal of foliage together. Both of them are accompanied by their mahouts. This is another strong bond, with many elephants having been with their chosen caregivers for well over a decade. The alliance with the Golden Triangle Asian Elephant Foundation supports not just the elephants, but the community around them — foremost their mahouts and their families.
Each of the six elephants we meet on our walk is female, with Tor explaining that the male elephants are less receptive to human company and are generally left to roam the hills with their mahouts. Typical! We follow the swaying tails towards the river where Sandeng, the cheekiest of the bunch, deeply stresses out her mahout by crossing the water over to Myanmar where she snacks on a tree branch before returning to the bank and promptly flopping over and playing dead. At the behest of her mahout, she springs up with a surprising agility that belies her three tonne weight and sprays water into the air.
The Four Seasons Tented Camp also caters to unreformed sybarites with a luxurious open-air spa perched atop the jungle. Accessed via the suspension bridge, it’s home to an eminently Instagrammable outdoor bathtub and offers treatments that draw from traditional Thai and other eastern techniques, paired with aromatic locally sourced herbs and spices. But while a restorative massage post-elephant bathing by no means went unappreciated, it’s the activities that immerse you in your surroundings that are the real drawcard here. A cruise down the Mekong river on a handmade longtail boat takes us to the juncture between Thailand, Laos, and Myanmar—the eponymous ‘Golden Triangle’—before we join locals at the daily fresh produce market in Chiang Saen and explore the ancient Buddhist temple Wat Chedi Luang while learning about the country’s former history as Siam. Back at the tented camp, we partook in more quotidian acts of elephant care, helping bathe them and making Khao Tom mud—a Thai dessert of bananas, glutinous rice, and peanuts wrapped in banana leaf—for them to enjoy for breakfast the following morning.
Of course, it’s not all elephant’s play; juxtaposition is key here. One afternoon, we’re taken on a bumpy ride through the jungle in one of the vintage Land Rovers which stops by the riverside where our effervescent guide Khun Chano serves us champagne atop the roof of the car. On another, we ensconce ourselves on the private deck of Burma Bar, which shakes up both locally inspired and classic cocktails. From this privileged vantage point, we watch as the sky becomes streaked with pink and orange, only tearing our eyes away when our cocktails float down from the bar above in a wooden bucket attached to a pulley system.
The Four Seasons Tented Camp has just a single restaurant on site, but meals at Nong Yao never feel stale thanks to rotating daily menus with both western and Thai, Laotian, and Burmese dishes on offer — not to mention the duo of elephants who join us for breakfast each morning to spice things up. A bevy of unique signature dining experiences contributes to the variety, including a private candlelit al-fresco dinner at the camp’s peak and a traditional Kanthok dinner served family style on a round rattan tray showcasing the culinary elegance of Lanna cuisine. Prioritising mountain herbs and spices as well as grilled, charred, and fermented cooking techniques, this idiosyncratically northern Thai cuisine represents a departure from the stylings of central Thailand. The entire meal is deftly modified to be vegetarian friendly, with Chano—who happened to be a Lanna kingdom native—expertly guiding us through each dish.
Surprisingly, the most impactful thing about the Four Seasons Tented Camp is not its unparalleled location, aesthetically striking design, or even the elephants themselves, but its staff’s commitment to both fostering a seamless stay and crafting memorable experiences. In addition to the English-speaking guides, waitstaff, and executive team, the ground and maintenance staff comprises many members of the local community. Quiet but perceptive, they appear as if by magic; proffering an umbrella before the first drop of rain falls or subtly slowing the car down when they sense an impending photo opportunity. Whether it’s ensuring you have a fairy tale final night with a candlelit dinner overlooking the Laotian border or saving a tiny fish’s life, no request or desire is too grandiose or insignificant for them to execute.
On the morning of our departure, we sleep in and miss the opportunity to feed Kamool and Jatong at breakfast. We take one last walk around the camp, lamenting the fact that we won’t be seeing the elephants this morning. As we stop to take a photo of the plant life, a shout from the distance urges us off the path, as two elephants come lumbering toward us, closely followed by their mahouts. “It’s a sign,” I think to myself. “They’ve come to say goodbye.” Kamool gives us a snort from behind a mouthful of shrubbery, while Jatong simply strides past without a care in the world, only pausing for an instant to defecate on the pebbled pathway before sashaying towards the morning sun entering the sky, her tail swinging behind her.
Farewell to you too.
The Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle is open for bookings, starting from approximately $5000AUD/night for two people.
Address: Vieng, 499 MOO1 T. Vieng, Chiang Saen District, Chiang Rai, Thailand
Words and images by T. Angel
