From the chore coats and sturdy work pants worn by blue collar workers to the trench coats donned by high-ranking British Army officials and the combat boots pulled on by members of the US Army, many of our favourite menswear staples have utilitarian origins. The classic cable knit sweater is no exception. Equal parts timeless and stylish, the cable knit sweater is a veritable essential in every man’s wardrobe, with their innate versatility allowing them to be used between seasons as a transitional piece or layered with other garments during the cooler months.
History of the cable knit sweater
The cable knit sweater — or Aran sweater, as it’s also known — originates in Ireland, first appearing during the late 1800s and early 1900s. Cable knit sweaters have their roots in fishing communities, originally crafted for seafaring. Originating on the Irish islands of Aran, cable knit or Aran sweaters were knit by women of the islands with the intention of keeping fishermen warm while at sea.
While using wool for waterproofness sounds counterproductive, the original cable knit sweaters were knit with unwashed báinín — a yarn made from sheep’s wool — which retained its natural waxy lanolin and was thus waterproof. Identified by their unique knitting patterns, cable knit or Aran sweaters feature vertical interwoven ‘cable’ patterns slightly raised off the body. Allegedly, different fishing villages would have different cable knit designs, so that the bodies of fishermen lost to the sea could be easily identified. Practical morbidity.
It wasn’t until the 1950s that cable knit sweaters began to transcend their functional origins, with companies exporting the style to the United States. In 1957, Vogue published a knitting pattern for Aran sweaters, cementing its status as a style to watch. Soon thereafter, celebrities began adopting the style, with notable cable knit sweater wearers including Elvis Presley, Grace Kelly, and Steve McQueen. Contemporary proponents of the cable knit sweater include Taylor Swift, who wore the style on the cover of her album Folklore, and Chris Evans, whose character wears a cream-coloured iteration in the 2019 film Knives Out.
How to wear a cable knit sweater
The way in which you style a cable knit or Aran sweater is heavily dependent on the chunkiness of the weave. Thicker versions recall the seafaring origins of the style and are best worn as an outer layer, teamed with equally rugged staples like work pants or raw denim, hiking or combat boots, and perhaps a relaxed-fit overcoat or waxed Barbour jacket.
Despite its everyman origins, the cable knit sweater exudes refinement. So, don’t be afraid to don one for more than just outdoor adventures. Thinner iterations can be worn as a mid-layer and are well-suited to smart casual occasions, sitting over a collared shirt and under a blazer for a hint of collegiate prep.
What to look for when choosing a cable knit sweater
When selecting an Aran or cable knit sweater, the key factors to consider are fit, fabric, and texture. Traditional Aran sweaters are hardy and sturdy, utilising untreated wool which allows them to stand the test of time. However, nowadays, merino and cashmere are also viable options, producing a softer feel on the skin.
Classic cable knit sweaters are designed to be worn looser as an outer layer, but contemporary iterations also utilise cable knit detailing to great effect, taking on slimmer proportions when it comes to fit — the best choice comes down to how you’re wearing it. If you’re looking for something to wear throughout winter on rugged adventures, opt for a loose-fit lambswool version. For more refined affairs, select merino wool, cashmere, or cotton iteration with even all-over vertical cables.
In terms of colour, there are a few foolproof options. Ecru, moss green, charcoal, grey, and navy blue are tried and true hues that look as good today as they did when the cable knit sweater rose to prominence.
The best cable knit sweaters for men
Whether you want a supremely chunky style that will hold up in a storm or are simply looking to expand your everyday wardrobe with a trans-seasonal staple, these are the best cable knit sweaters on the market.
1. Inverallan
Family-run Scottish company Inverallan is one of the few hand-knitting experts in the world, producing a wide array of knitwear. The Inverallan 1A Cable Crew is crafted from pure wool and built to last. The cable knit pattern has enough heft to make a statement, yet is streamlined enough to be worn as part of a smart casual ensemble; teamed with dress pants, a turtleneck skivvy, and a structured coat. The style is available in classic shades of oatmeal, burgundy, dark grey, black, and forest green — the oatmeal and forest green hues are particular standouts.
2. Ralph Lauren Cable Knit Cotton Jumper
For guys who are more likely to take to the concrete jungle than the high seas, a Ralph Lauren cable knit sweater is a safe bet. The Ralph Lauren Cable Knit Cotton Jumper is one of the brand’s most iconic designs (alongside the instantly recognisable polo shirt) and takes on a streamlined approach. Available in regular and slim-fit cuts, the all-over vertical cable knit pattern is even and decidedly non-chunky, sitting well under a blazer or sports coat. A true classic, it features ribbed cuffs, a crewneck, and of course, the signature embroidered pony logo on the chest.
3. Inis Meáin Cashmere Aran Sweater
For a truly authentic Aran sweater, look no further than Inis Meáin, which is named after the island it’s located on. One of the three Aran islands, Inis Meáin is situated off the western coast of Ireland and is known for its rugged natural beauty. Inspired by the sartorial heritage of the location, the Inis Meáin Cashmere Aran Sweater is crafted from a mid-weight merino and cashmere blend and features a symmetrical cable knit pattern across the front. Each piece is machine-knit and hand-finished in the brand’s Aran Islands workshop.
4. LL Bean Men’s Signature Cotton Fisherman Sweater
A lighter, trans-seasonal take on the classic cable knit sweater, the LL Bean Men’s Signature Cotton Fisherman Sweater is the ideal layering piece. Inspired by traditional fishermen’s sweaters, it’s cut from cotton and features a heritage-style cable knit pattern.
5. Gloverall Men’s Aran Jumper
While British brand Gloverall has its roots in military duffle coats, they also make damn good cable knit sweaters. Inspired by classic Aran sweaters, the Gloverall Men’s Aran Jumper takes a more civilian-oriented approach to the utilitarian staple, with a slimmer fit constructed from merino wool that allows it to be worn under a blazer or denim jacket. The addition of ribbed cuffs and waistband lend the sweater a sense of structure, making it well-suited to business casual occasions.
6. Reiss Rosso Cable Knit Half Zip Funnel Neck Jumper
Blending classic details with a contemporary silhouette, the Reiss Rosso Cable Knit Half Zip Funnel Neck Jumper swaps the traditional crewneck for a modern half-zip neckline, resulting in an edgy take on the staple. Made from a wool, viscose, nylon, cotton, and cashmere blend, its more than fit for taking on Australian winters (though would likely struggle on the high seas). A slim-fit garment, it can easily be paired with tailored trousers and loafers for an office-friendly look or raw denim and pared-back sneakers for off-duty wear.
7. J. Crew Chunky Heavyweight Cashmere Cable Knit Sweater
A go-to for all-American style, J. Crew is home to an array of cable knit sweaters in both cotton and cashmere. With a pared-back pattern, the J. Crew Chunky Heavyweight Cashmere Cable Knit Sweater is a cold-weather favourite, with its sturdy construction and chunky knit allowing it to stand the test of time. For those looking for something a little different, J. Crew also offers shawl collar variations with cable knit detailing.
8. Orvis Cable Crewneck Sweater
Founded in Manchester, Vermont, Orvis is known for its high-quality fly fishing and adventure gear. So, naturally, a fisherman’s sweater is a must-have. The Orvis Cable Crewneck Sweater is crafted from a merino wool blend which provides warmth while wicking away moisture for comfort during activities. Equally at home teamed with tailored trousers as it is with rugged twill work pants, the Orvis Cable Crewneck Sweater is fit to take on any challenge.
9. Nanushka Duan Cable Knit Vest
While fishermen of yesteryear would likely be aghast at the thought of a cable knit vest, it’s sartorial blasphemy in the best possible way. Constructed from a merino, cashmere, and nylon blend, it’s the perfect layering piece, adding warmth and style to plain turtlenecks or button-up shirts.
10. Sunspel Merino Cable Jumper
British brand Sunspel has been making luxurious yet unfussy staples since the mid-19th century. Crafted from soft, chunky merino wool, the Sunspel Merino Cable Jumper boasts a satisfying heft with a traditional, heritage-style appearance.
11. Todd Synder The Dean Sweater
Available in an array of rich hues, the Todd Synder The Dean Sweater is crafted from pure lambswool and is supremely warm. With its consistent all-over cable stitching and eye-catching shades, its vibe is more collegiate prep than stormy weather on a fishing boat, but that just adds to its charm. Pare it back with a t-shirt, denim jeans, and combat or hiking boots for a polished yet relaxed casual look, or style it up with pleated trousers and loafers for smart casual wear.
Words by Theo Rosen
