A classic men’s overcoat is a menswear essential that transcends both dress codes and generations, with the style as relevant now as it was a century ago. Adding a sense of gravitas to streetwear getups and a natural fit for suiting, the best men’s overcoats are a foundational wardrobe essential that never goes out of style. The right men’s overcoats will serve as a hero piece during winter — one that can be thrown on without forethought and work with casual and formal outfits alike.
What to look for in men’s overcoats
While the word ‘overcoat’ is a catchall for a wide variety of long winter coats designed to be worn over your standard layers — including peacoats, duffle coats, lodens, and trench coats — here we’re using the term to refer to a longline dressier style of coat with a tailored sensibility. Typically, this means a knee- to thigh-length single-breasted coat with notched lapels and a single vent. That said, contemporary styles overten veer on the shorter side (think mid-thigh), however these have a slightly more casual feel and are less aesthetically impactful (read: dramatic) than their longer counterparts.
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The best overcoat materials
As the functional point of an overcoat is to provide protection from the elements, selecting the right material is essential for ensuring it’s actually fit for purpose. If we’re getting technical, tailors typically specify overcoats as having a fabric weight of 600-700g (20-25oz). Lighter than this can be considered top coat territory, with this lighter style designed to be worn in autumn and on cooler spring days. That said, a higher fabric weight doesn’t always mean a warmer coat, with cashmere providing more warmth for its weight than wool due to its hollow fibres.
When it comes to fibre choice, wool and cashmere dominate the market. Wool is the durable choice, offering more structure and providing a clean silhouette. Meanwhile, cashmere is luxuriously soft, with its lighter nature offering a beautiful drape and flow that moves as you do. The sacrifice here is that it’s more delicate, with a cashmere overcoat prone to wear out quicker than its wool counterpart. A good compromise to ensure both durability and a sumptuous feel is a wool-cashmere blend.
Other overcoat materials to consider include camel hair (or a camel hair blend) and vicuna, with the latter sitting on the pointy end of the price spectrum.
What colour overcoat should I buy?
When it comes to men’s overcoat colours, the most versatile shades are dark grey, navy, charcoal, and dark brown. Black tends to err towards the formal or sombre side and should be avoided if looking for an option for daily wear. While darker colours have historically been more popular options, shades like tan and olive green, and patterns like herringbone are also stylish and versatile options.
Fitted or oversized?
Determining how an overcoat should fit can be tricky. Traditionally, overcoats were designed to wear over a suit—hence the name—meaning they needed to be loose enough to accommodate it without squashing or creasing the jacket beneath. Nowadays, some guys choose to wear their overcoats over everyday smart casual outfits (think jeans and knits), nullifying the need for a looser fit.
As a general rule, we recommend selecting an overcoat that fits snugly over a heavyweight suit; look for an overcoat with little to no shoulder padding to reduce bulk and ensure the shoulder line fits without any overhang to avoid looking sloppy. Alternatively, opting for an overcoat with raglan sleeves allows you to lean into the slouchy, cosy look.
How to wear an overcoat
At its core, the overcoat’s modus operandi is to be worn over a suit or a blazer and separates. A failsafe, foolproof outfit that’s ideally suited to chilly days in the concrete jungle. That said, the overcoat is also an apt fit with mock or roll neck sweaters and a pair of woollen trousers. Alternatively, add a touch of elegance to a workwear-inspired look by donning an overcoat over an outfit of straight cut jeans, a chore coat, and sturdy boots.
If your style skews more streetwear than sartorial, you’re in luck: an overcoat looks good with that too. A single-breasted overcoat worn open over a hoodie and jeans or a cargo pants and a t-shirt set makes for an appealing contrast and adds visual interest to your outfit.
The best men’s overcoats to buy in 2024
1. Kaptain Sunshine Traveler
Price: $1375AUD
The ultimate do-it-all overcoat, the Toast Double Breasted Wool Overcoat is classic yet unstudied. Crafted from washed wool herringbone and lined with twill, it features a back vent which allows for ease of motion while the roomy silhouette accommodates voluminous layers while still looking clean. The ideal throw-over-anything men’s overcoat, it’s equally at home over jeans and a shirt jacket as it is with a suit.
Outer: wool | Lining: cotton twill | Sleeve lining: 51% viscose, 49% cotton
2. Asket The Wool Coat
Price: £325 (approx. $620AUD)
Fusing the best of both worlds, the Asket The Wool Coat features a standard shoulder line in the front and raglan sleeves at the back. A clean, minimalist take on the classic style, it features a sharp cut-away collar and is cut a touch shorter than traditional overcoats (while still being long enough to keep you warm) which lends it a modern aesthetic.
Outer: recycled wool | Lining: cotton
3. Drake’s Prince of Wales Check Wool Raglan Coat
Price: $3000AUD
Drake’s knows how to do a good overcoat. The Drake’s Prince of Wales Check Wool Raglan Coat is a delightfully slouchy take on the style, with split raglan shoulders and a high-cut rear vent allowing for ease of movement. The silhouette comes in several colours and patterns, however this Prince of Wales style is a standout for its flecks of colour that work to add interest to otherwise neutral ‘fits. At $3000AUD, it’s on the pricier side, however the impeccable craftsmanship, louche style, and heavyweight fabric make it well worth the investment.
Outer: wool | Lining: cotton
4. Golden Goose Single Breasted Wool Coat
Price: $1800AUD
Grey is the ideal hue for a coat that goes with everything. This herringbone iteration from Golden Goose is cut from wool with a herringbone weave and features subtly peaked lapels. It’s cut generously enough to accommodate a thick sweater or jacket yet still gives off a defined shape.
Outer: wool | Lining: 64% viscose, 36% rayon | Sleeve lining: 52% viscose, 48% acetate
5. Wax London Navarino Mac
A longline black overcoat adds a touch of edge to any wardrobe. While not a traditional heavyweight wool overcoat, this mackintosh style coat serves as a solid topper during inclement weather, with its technical nylon fabrication providing protection from the rain. With its concealed button closure and sleek, streamlined silhouette, it offers a decidedly contemporary look — a welcome alternative to the flocks of puffer jacket-clad tech and investment bros. Pair with lighter colours to avoid veering into funereal territory; a cream roll neck sweater and dark wash denim will serve you well.
Outer: nylon | Lining: nylon
6. Foret Shelter Long Wool Coat
Price: €175.95 (approx. $283AUD)
The epitome of cosy core. Cut from pure wool, the single-breasted Foret Shelter Long Wool Coat takes on a streamlined silhouette with enough room to accommodate winter layers. Wear it open atop similarly earthy tones or rug up against the elements.
Outer: wool | Lining: unspecified
7. Velasca Monforte
Price: $1142AUD
Double-breasted isn’t for the faint of heart, but every man should try it sometime. Crafted from pure wool, the Velasca Monforte overcoat is a voluminous double-breasted style that adds an almost stoic elegance to even the most quotidian casual outfit. Thrown on over denim or paired with tailoring, it’s able to traverse dress codes and occasions with ease.
Outer: wool | Lining: cotton
8. Cos Tailored Wool Overcoat
Price: $490AUD
Precise tailoring renders this men’s overcoat almost an extension of a suit jacket, the Cos Tailored Wool Overcoat pairs structured, form-fitting shoulders and notch lapels with a straight-cut design with a single back vent that allows for ease of motion while retaining a polished silhouette. An apt choice for those whose workplaces still err on the more formal side of things.
Outer: 75% wool, 25% polyamide | Lining: polyester
9. Dunhill Herringbone Car Coat
Price: $3300AUD
Originally designed for frequent drivers and passengers, car coats feature a shorter hemline to allow wearers to get in and out of cars with ease. Ideally suited for those who gravitate towards more contemporary styles—or perhaps don’t require the full heft of a true overcoat—the Dunhill Herringbone Car Coat is the ultimate minimalist coat for men. Its pure wool construction ensures you stay warm, while an exaggerated collar lends the otherwise subdued style a playful touch.
Outer: wool | Lining: cotton | Sleeve Lining: viscose
10. Mr P. Checked Brushed Wool-Blend Overcoat
Price: $514AUD
Easy to love and easy to wear, this single-breasted style by Mr P. makes for a foolproof way to top off any fit. Cut from a wool-blend in a relaxed fit, it’s equally at home worn open over pleated trousers and chunky knitwear as it is styled over denim and a (gasp!) hoodie.
Outer: 40% wool, 28% polyester, 18% acrylic, 6% alpaca, 5% polyamide, 3% other fibres | Lining: viscose
11. Madewell Double-Breasted Topcoat
Price: $618AUD
Despite appearing relatively conventional at first glance, there’s a rakish sense of appeal that emanates from the Madewell Double-Breasted Topcoat. Made from Madewell’s in-house Insuluxe fabric, it’s cut generously in both length and volume, allowing for substantial layering sans bulk. An oversized notch lapel gives it just the right amount of edge; like an off-duty rockstar…or maybe just an investment banker on a smoke break.
Outer: wool/polyamide/cashmere/polyester blend (Insuluxe fabric) | Lining: viscose
Men’s overcoats FAQ
A coat is a catch-all term that encompasses trench coats, pea coats, rain coats, and car coats, while an overcoat is a type of coat designed to be worn over a suit jacket, blazer, or sports coat. Overcoats are typically crafted from heavy woollen fabrics and tend to fall below the knee, however some contemporary styles err on the shorter side.
Overcoats are generally intended to be worn outdoors (i.e. while commuting, roaming the city) and should be taken off indoors.
Overcoats are neither casual nor formal, however can be worn with both styles of outfits. While traditionally overcoats were worn over suits, today they can be thrown over streetwear, jeans and t-shirts, and other casual outfits. Still, it’s good manners to remove your overcoat when heading inside, regardless of your outfit.
Words by Theo Rosen
Feature image courtesy of Velasca
