The American designer’s signature amalgam of sharp tailoring and all-American prep fuses with womenswear elements in the Thom Browne Resort 2022 Menswear collection. The designer plays the role of provocateur, blending timeless suiting elements and luxurious textiles like cable knits, wool seersucker, and lightweight Indian madras plaid with gender-blurring silhouettes.
“I have zero interest in designing a collection that is casual,” Thom Browne told WWD. “The idea of casual clothes is just not that interesting.”
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Fair enough. True to form, the Thom Browne Resort 2022 Menswear collection sees American sack suits take shape in printed checks and plaid, while adventurous tailoring in the form of short suits is rendered in classic wool. As expected with Thom Browne, the collection is adorned with hand-shaped appliqué, this time taking on an up-in-the-air theme with clouds, kites, and hot air balloons, reflecting a desire to return to the days of travelling.
The archetypal muted Thom Brown colour palette of black, white, grey, navy, and red hues is employed, balancing out more daring silhouettes like checked single and double-breasted suit jackets paired with matching shorts or pleated skirts, ultra-slim checked trousers teamed with argyle knit cardigans and matching jackets, and ponchos in blown-up proportions, worn with skirts and gumboots.
Despite the formality of the collection, Thom Browne Resort 2022 Menswear injects an element of playfulness into the range, seen in the form of the thematic appliqué as well as the Thom Browne Hector bag, dedicated to the designer’s dachshund. The Hector bag appears several times, transformed into a plane or shrunk down into a tiny clutch size, while new iterations of the Mr Thom. are also dotted throughout the collection.
Words by AR Staff