It’s the most wonderful time of the year for horology enthusiasts and watch collectors. With the industry’s most important trade show, Watches & Wonders, in full swing, Rolex has dropped its new releases for 2023. Every year, horologists wait with bated breath to see what Rolex will come up with, and the Crown hasn’t disappointed. More than merely introducing new colourways, Rolex has gotten jiggy with it, releasing a slew of fun and funky Oyster Perpetuals and Day-Dates, revisiting classics, and even inaugurating an entirely new collection.
Without further ado, these are all the new Rolex watch releases for 2023.
Cosmograph Daytona
To celebrate the 60th anniversary of the motoring icon, Rolex has reimagined the entire Cosmograph Daytona range. Subtle refinements have been made to the dial and case, with the dial updated for better “graphic balance” and new colour combinations added to promote greater contrasts between the dial and the subdial rings. The case has been redesigned to reflect light on the lugs and case sides, while versions with a Cerachrom bezel see the bezel edged with a thin band of the same metal as the middle case.
What makes the Cosmograph Daytona tick has changed too. From this year onwards, the model is equipped with the calibre 4131, a new movement that utilises the Chronergy escapement and ups the ante in terms of aesthetic appeal, with a cut-out oscillating weight and bridges finished in Rolex Côtes de Genève. Naturally, the movement is visible through a transparent exhibition caseback.
The Cosmograph Daytona is available in Oystersteel and precious metals, however, the 950 platinum iteration is a particular standout. With an ice blue dial and chestnut brown ceramic bezel, it’s a strikingly elevated take on the quintessential motoring tool watch.
Perpetual 1908
Filling the Cellini-sized gap in the Rolex lineup, the Crown has added a new dress watch to its stable. Serving to inaugurate Rolex’s new Perpetual collection, the Perpetual 1908 has been deemed “a reinterpretation of traditional watchmaking style imbued with quintessential watchmaking expertise and the aesthetic heritage of Rolex.”
Elegant and understated, the Rolex Perpetual 1908 features a slim 39mm case crafted from either yellow or white gold. The inner section of the bezel is domed while the outer part is finely fluted, encircling a sleek black or white dial. The dial features Arabic numerals at 3, 9, and 12 o’clock and faceted hour markers. At 6 o’clock, there’s a small seconds sundial with the words ‘Superlative Chronometer’ above it in an arc shape. The hour hand is distinguished by a circle just before the tip while the minutes hand resembles a double-edged sword. The timepiece is presented on either a brown or black alligator leather strap, fitted with a double-folding clasp.
The Perpetual 1908 is powered by the new calibre 7140, unveiled this year. The movement includes a Chronergy escapement, Syloxi hairspring, and Paraflex shock absorbers, and features bridges finished with Rolex Côtes de Genève stripes.
Yacht-Master 42
For the first time, the Rolex Yacht-Master 42 has been dressed in titanium. Lightweight yet robust enough to handle the demands of competitive sailing, the Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 42 is crafted from RLX titanium and features an Oyster bracelet. The new Yacht-Master 42 is distinguishable by its technical satin finish — a satin finish with a visible grain, a feature of Rolex watches in RLX titanium — which extends to the middle case sides, the edges of the bracelet links, and the sides of the clasp cover.
The bidirectional rotatable bezel is fitted with a non-corrosive Cerachrom insert, while the watch is waterproof to a depth of 100 metres. The Yacht-Master 42 is equipped with calibre 3235, a movement that displays the date as well as the hours, minutes, and seconds.
Sky-Dweller
Designed for the consummate traveller, the Sky-Dweller is now equipped with the calibre 9002, a movement that allows it to display the date and the month, as well as an additional time zone in 24-hour format, and the hours, minutes, and seconds. This iteration of the Sky-Dweller marks the first time the model has paired a white gold case with a black Oysterflex bracelet. The timepiece is also available in other precious metals like Everose gold with a blue-green dial and a white gold and steel version.
GMT-Master II
Favoured by professional navigators and travellers, the GMT-Master II gains two new references. The first is executed entirely in yellow gold while the other is a yellow Rolesor — combining yellow gold and stainless steel for a two-tone effect — version. Both variants have a matte black dial, are presented on a Jubilee bracelet, and feature a 24-hour graduated monobloc Cerachrom bezel insert in grey — a new shade — and black ceramic.
Explorer 40
When it comes to the Crown, a few millimetres is all it takes to ruffle feathers. the Rolex has expanded its Explorer range, introducing a 40mm variant into the mix. The Rolex Explorer 40 aesthetically and functionally resembles the Explorer 36, with both powered by the calibre 3230 which provides nothing but the essential functions — the hours, minutes, and seconds. Crafted from Oystersteel, it features a matte black dial and is presented on an Oyster bracelet.
Oyster Perpetual
Known for its clean lines and streamlined form, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual just got a whole lot funkier. Available in 31mm, 36mm, and 41mm case sizes, the timepiece sees the dial adorned with differently sized bubbles outlined in black. The selected hues hark back to the vivid lacquered dials — of candy pink, turquoise, yellow, collar red, and green — introduced in 2020.
The Oyster Perpetual 31 is equipped with the calibre 2232, while the Oyster Perpetual 36 and Oyster Perpetual 41 are both fitted with the calibre 3230.; both movements provide the essential functions of hours, minutes, and seconds.
Day-Date ‘Emoji’ Dial
Wear your heart on your wrist with the new Rolex Day-Date. Despite its name, the Day-Date has chosen to eschew both the day and the date in favour of a little self-expression; namely the words ‘Happy’, ‘Eternity’, ‘Gratitude’, ‘Peace’, ‘Faith’, ‘Love’, and ‘Hope’ in the 12 o’clock window and one of 31 emojis in the date window at 3 o’clock.
The dial itself features a vibrant jigsaw puzzle motif, executed in champlevé enamelling and featuring puzzle pieces of turquoise, red, fuchsia, orange, green, and yellow which fit together on either a turquoise or orange background. The hours are marked by colourful baguette-cut sapphires. The timepiece is available in yellow gold, white gold, and Everose gold versions.
Day-Date 36
Celebrating the beauty of precious stones, the Day-Date 36 sees decorative stone dials studded with diamond-set hour markers and Roman numerals. The three new Day-Date 36 timepieces are striking in their own right, with a variant for every taste. There’s Everose gold with a green aventurine dial; yellow gold with a carnelian — an orange-coloured stone — dial; and white gold with a turquoise dial that features natural veining. Each timepiece features a bezel set with 52 brilliant-cut diamonds, however, there’s the option to swap this out for a fluted iteration. As is characteristic of the Day-Date line, each new timepiece comes on the instantly recognisable President bracelet.
Words by Theo Rosen
