Utilitarian Femininity Is The Name Of The Game At Fendi SS23

Utilitarian Femininity Is The Name Of The Game At Fendi SS23

Fendi SS23 sees the house’s creative director — and arguably the busiest man in fashion right now — Kim Jones fuse the codes he has established during his time with the Italian luxury fashion house with what the contemporary woman desires while respecting the design language laid out by Karl Lagerfeld from 1996 to 2002. “It’s about continuity,” said Jones. “I am interested in looking at things that Karl has done, and seeing how we can develop them – both visually and technically.”

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Exploring the intersection of effortless minimalism and pop-infused eclecticism that defined the turn of the millennium, femininity and fluidity meet function and utility in Fendi SS23. The union of the seemingly disparate design codes continues into the space, with the show set in a warehouse punctuated with metal beams in hues of coral, lilac, and lime. 

The colour palette echoes its surroundings, with neutral hues complemented by vibrant pink, cornflour blue, and vivid greens. The dialogue between feminine and functional can be seen in pocket-laden utility pants cut from silky satin, suiting and outerwear that combines satin and wool, and nylon jersey embellished with lacquered embroidery. Natural textiles of cashmere, fur, shearling, and leather take on a lighter tone, layered with technical fabrics. An abundance of satin is rescued from daintiness by being paired with tennis shoes or rubber platforms in vibrant hues; with footwear featuring the inverted ‘F’ symbol.

“At Fendi, I am constantly thinking about practicality as well as luxury,” notes Jones. “Adding heavy hardware to something very soft both gives it real functionality and makes it interesting.” In line with this sentiment, the Fendi Peekaboo is sliced in half to reveal its mechanisms and bags are decorated by oversized FENDI steel hardware.

Grounding ethereality in utility, the Fendi SS23 collection represents a multifaceted interpretation of the modern woman. As Jones puts it: “What is particularly interesting to me about FENDI is exploring the notion of functional utility alongside femininity – because the Fendi women are strong women with full, busy lives.”


Words by T. Angel