This year, Cartier is focused on the themes of metamorphosis and evolution, with its Watches & Wonders 2025 releases iterating on its heritage and transforming classic timepieces into objects of desire by way of precious metals and gemstones. Cartier’s Watches & Wonders 2025 releases are in line with several of our watch trend predictions for the year; namely dichotomous (in this case, big) case sizes, unique time displays, and the fusion of jewellery and watches.
Herewith, all the new releases from Cartier for Watches & Wonders 2025.
Tank Louis Cartier
Designed in 1922, the Tank Louis Cartier represented an evolution of the original Tank—now dubbed the ‘Tank Normale‘—designed by Louis Cartier five years prior.
“In 1917, Louis Cartier conceived the first Tank watch, with a geometric precision that was truly unique for its time,” explained Pierre Rainero, image, heritage, and style director at Cartier. “Five years later, the Tank known as ‘Louis Cartier’ was born, featuring a more elongated, rectangular dial, and brancards with rounded ends. The elegance and clarity of its refined design have allowed the Tank Louis Cartier to traverse the century with remarkable ease, embodying the timelessness of an icon.”
At the tail end of last year, Cartier released the Tank Louis Mini, a delightfully tiny (24mm x 16.5mm) version of the Tank Louis Cartier. So, the natural follow up is a supersized version suited to larger wrists. The new Tank Louis Cartier retains the thoughtful proportions and hallmarks of the original design—railway track, Roman numerals, parallel brancards with integrated lugs, blued sword-shaped hands, and a crown set with a sapphire or ruby cabochon—but does so without merely sizing up the case. Cartier has designed an in-house movement, the automatic calibre 1899 MC, specifically for use within the new large Tank Louis Cartier. This marks the first time the Tank Louis Cartier has been powered by an automatic movement in decades.
The newcomer is available in yellow or rose gold, each with a flinqué (geometric guilloché pattern) dial and an alligator leather strap.
Model: Tank Louis Cartier
Case size: 38.1mm x 27.75mm
Movement: 1899 MC (automatic)
Water resistance: 3ATM
Functions: hours, minutes
Power reserve: TBC
Tank à Guichets
In line with the trend towards timepieces that display the time in unique and novel ways, Cartier has revived its Tank à Guichets timepiece. Sitting within the Cartier Privé collection, which has revived archival timepieces like the Tonneau, Tank Normale, and Tortue in limited quantities (and is a favourite among collectors), the Tank à Guichets was first introduced in 1928 and combines a mechanical movement with a digital time display.
“Six years after the debut of the Tank Louis Cartier, Louis Cartier took his quest for simplicity even further with the Tank à Guichets,” says Rainero. “Time is revealed solely through two minimal openings, with the traditional dial replaced by a streamlined, all-gold case defined by clean lines and perfect proportions. A jumping hour mechanism and a dragging minute display embody Cartier’s commitment to refined watchmaking, where technical mastery always serves aesthetic excellence.”
The quartet of new Tank à Guichets timepieces employ a hand-wound movement (the in-house calibre 9755 MC) which combines jumping hours and dragging minutes functions. The closed dial case has a satin finish which contrasts with the polished brancards, while the crown is atypically placed at 12 o’clock. The timepiece is available in two distinct styles; the first is rendered in rose gold, yellow gold, or platinum and stays faithful to the 1928 design, with the hour aperture placed at 12 o’clock and the minutes at 6 o’clock. The second, which is limited to 200 examples, is crafted from platinum and nods to the creativity and artistic innovation of the 1930s, placing both the hour and minutes apertures at an angle; the former at 10 o’clock and the latter at 4 o’clock.
Model: Tank à Guichets
Availability: first style is not limited; second limited to 200 numbered examples
Case size: 37.6mm x 24.8mm
Movement: 9755 MC (manually wound)
Water resistance: not water resistant/0ATM
Functions: jumping hours, dragging minutes
Power reserve: TBC
Tressage
Synthesising jewellery and watchmaking codes, the Cartier Tressage takes a sculptural, aesthetically driven approach to watchmaking, rendering yellow or white gold and precious stones in unique volumes to form a decidedly distinctive timepiece. While the Cartier Tressage looks like a bracelet watch upon first glance, it actually sees the two parallel twisted forms straddle a leather strap, with the bulbous nature of the curvilinear forms contrasting against the smooth, rectilinear gadroons.
Sitting in the space between a bangle and a watch, the Cartier Tressage is available in four variations; yellow gold with a black dial and black leather strap; yellow gold and diamonds with a diamond-set dial and white leather strap; white gold and diamonds with a diamond-set dial and navy blue leather strap; and white gold, sapphires, and diamonds with a diamond-set dial and navy blue leather strap. Each of the timepieces is powered by a quartz movement.
Model: Tressage
Case size: 56.2mm x 25.7mm
Movement: quartz
Water resistance: 3ATM
Functions: hours, minutes
Power reserve: N/A
Panthère Jewellery Watch
Another display of the fusion between watchmaking and jewellery, the Panthère Jewellery Watch unites two of the maison’s signatures in one timepiece. Drawing from the design codes of the Reflection de Cartier launched at last year’s Watches & Wonders, the Panthère Jewellery Watch sees a solid yellow or while gold bracelet adorned with a delicate watch dial on one side and a three-dimensional panther leaping to meet it on the other.
The yellow gold version takes on a sleek tone, with polished surfaces and lacquered details. The dial of the watch is coated with black lacquer, which extends to the spots of the panther facing it. The dial of the watch is surrounded by a diamond bezel, while the panther’s eyes are formed from green tsavorites. Meanwhile, the white gold timepiece takes on a decidedly blingier approach, with 1100 snow-set diamonds speckled over the bracelet, watch, and panther. The panther has green emerald eyes and its body is studded with black onyx.
Both Panthère Jewellery Watches are powered by quartz movements.
Model: Panthère Jewellery Watch
Case size: N/A
Movement: quartz
Water resistance: 3ATM
Functions: hours, minutes
Power reserve: N/A
Panthère de Cartier
The Panthère de Cartier is a mainstay on the wrist of it girls everywhere. Here, it gets an abstract, animalic jewellery inspired makeover that showcases the savoir-faire of Cartier’s Maison des Métiers d’Art. Combining zebra and tiger motifs, the Panthère de Cartier sees an impressive fusion of black and golden-brown lacquer, pavé diamonds, and orange and yellow spessartites, take shape across the dial and on the bracelet. The animalic (tigbra? zeber?) Panthère de Cartier is rendered in rose gold, with its 36.5mm x 26.7mm case size closest to the maison’s medium Panthère size.
Model: Panthère de Cartier
Case size: 36.5mm x 26.7mm
Movement: quartz
Water resistance: 3ATM
Functions: hours, minutes,
Power reserve: N/A
Panthère de Cartier
Cartier has also released a quartet of Panthère de Cartier timepieces with pavé diamonds adorning the bezel and bracelet. The bejewelled styles are available in mini (rose gold), small (yellow and rose gold), and medium (rose gold) options.
Model: Panthère de Cartier
Case size: 25mm x 20mm; 30.3mm x 20mm; 36.5mm x 26.7mm
Movement: quartz
Water resistance: 3ATM
Functions: hours, minutes,
Power reserve: N/A
Stay up to date with the latest releases from Watches & Wonders here.
Words by T. Angel
