Forgot to wind your movement? Well, much like a quartz timepiece, the watch industry keeps on ticking with a slew of new releases from revered manufactures and independent up-and-comers alike. We’ve only just entered September 2025 and our inbox is already flooded with embargoed releases for covetable new gems dropping for this year’s Geneva Watch Days and beyond. With the watch industry showing no signs of winding down, we’re back with the September 2025 instalment of In The Loupe, our monthly watch news series covering the latest and greatest (as well as some downright weird) watch releases and watch industry news.
September 2025 watch news
Below, all the watch news you need to know in September 2025.
Rolex gets ready to tee off with Golf Australia
Rolex has cemented its commitment to the game of life, announcing a new five-year partnership with Golf Australia, that encompasses both the men’s & women’s Australian Opens. The manufacture has also built upon its involvement in professional golf by strengthening relationship with the PGA of Australia, with a premier partnership that includes the Australian WPGA Championship. The new involvements join Rolex’s ongoing roles as the official timekeeper for the BMW Australian PGA Championship, and as a major partner of the Challenger PGA Tour of Australasia and the WPGA Tour of Australasia.
Vacheron Constantin presents a duo of masterpieces large and small
- Vacheron Constantin know how to mark a milestone, with a seemingly endless slew of 270th anniversary releases
- This is—literally and figuratively—the biggest yet, with the Swiss manufacture unveiling the La Quête du Temps, an astronomical clock with an automation that reads the time
- The astronomical clock is accompanied by the Métiers d’Art Tribute to The Quest of Time wristwatch, a white gold timepiece with a double retrograde movement that’s indicated using a similar automaton as the clock
- The wristwatch is powered by the new calibre 3670, a hand-wound movement with 512 components, and four patent applications
Price: $POA
Availability: 20 examples
Model: Tribute to The Quest of Time (ref. 7200A/000G-H103)
Case size: 43mm
Movement: 3670 (manually wound)
Water resistance: 3ATM
Functions: double power reserve display, double retrograde hours and minutes
Power reserve: 144 hours (six days)
Explore Tribute to The Quest of Time via Vacheron Constantin.
Breguet releases the spacey dual time Marine Hora Mundi 5555
- The fifth release in its 250th anniversary celebrations, the Marine Hora Mundi 5555 (hora mundi means ‘world time’ in Latin) is a limited-edition dual time zone watch that features a dial inspired by NASA’s Black Marble, which shows the night sky as viewed from space
- The dual-layered dial sees hand-applied phosphorescent enamel decoration form the cities across the globe, while guilloché lines contribute towards creating a three-dimensional dial effect
- Housed within a 43.9mm case crafted from Breguet gold, it’s powered by the calibre 77F1, an automatic movement with a pre-programmable instant jump dual time zone, date, day/night indicator, and synchronised city feature
Price: $160,200AUD
Availability: 50 examples
Model: Marine Hora Mundi 5555 (ref. 5555BH/YS/9WV)
Case size: 43.9mm
Movement: 77F1 (automatic)
Water resistance: 10ATM
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, dual time zone, day/night indicator, date
Power reserve: 55 hours
Explore Marine Hora Mundi 5555 via Breguet.
Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo serves as a canvas for artist Lee Ufan
- Bulgari is no stranger to cross-industry collaboration, with the Roman watchmaking having previously linked up with the likes of Tadao Ando and Laurent Grasso
- Now, the ultra-thin Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan x Bulgari sees the South Korean-born, Japan-based artist’s rock and metal sculptures serve as inspiration for the piece, with the case and bracelet design seeing the titanium hand-engraved with striations reminiscent of those found on rocks
- The dial contrasts the geologically inspired bracelet and case, with the mirror-polished dial left sparse, save for the central handset and small seconds hand at 8 o’clock
Price: $18,900CHF
Availability: 150 examples
Model: Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan x Bulgari
Case size: 40mm
Movement: BVL 138 (automatic)
Water resistance: 3ATM
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds
Power reserve: 60 hours
Explore Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan x Bulgari via Bulgari.
Laurent Ferrier celebrates 15 years of independent watchmaking with the Classic Tourbillon Teal
- Independent watchmaker Laurent Ferrier celebrates his 15th anniversary as an independent watchmaker this year, marking the occasion by revisiting his first creation, the Classic Tourbillon
- The Laurent Ferrier Classic Tourbillon is notable for concealing the namesake tourbillon, resulting in a refined take on the traditionally showy regulatory mechanism
- The reimagined timepiece sees the 41mm pebble-shaped case remain unchanged in its design; here, it’s crafted from platinum and complemented by a grand feu enamel teal dial with a white gold base
- The movement has received an upgrade, with the manually wound calibre LF619.01 featuring dark ruthenium bridges and rhodium-plated wheels for optimal aesthetic effect
Price: $195,000CHF
Availability: examples
Model: Classic Tourbillon Teal (ref. LCF001.P1.EVC1)
Case size: 41mm
Movement: LF619.01 (manually wound)
Water resistance: 3ATM
Functions: hours, minutes
Power reserve: 80 hours
Explore Classic Tourbillon Teal via Laurent Ferrier.
Roger W. Smith launches the Series Six
- Legendary independent British watchmaker Roger W. Smith has added a new model to his collection, with the Series Six introducing a newly developed calibre with a peripheral instantaneous date display and Roger W. Smith’s latest version of the single wheel co-axial escapement
- The timepiece displays hours, minutes and seconds on a floating dial centre with the date indicated on a lower level by a travelling aperture
- The 40mm timepiece is available in gold or platinum and has an open caseback, allowing you to admire the impeccably finished movement
Price: £320,000
Model: Series Six
Case size: 40mm
Movement: in-house calibre (manually wound)
Water resistance: N/A
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, travelling date
Power reserve: 48 hours
Explore Series Six via Roger W. Smith.
TAG Heuer proffers a decidedly different take on the moonphase
- TAG Heuer puts forward a creative new take on the moonphase with the Carrera Astonomer, blending the Swiss luxury watch brand’s sporty style with the traditionally romantic complication
- The timepiece pays homage to archival Heuer moonphase watches from the 1940s and 1950s and pays tribute a key moment for the brand in 1962; when a Heuer was the first Swiss-made watch to make it into space, worn on the wrist of John Glenn who orbited the earth trice
- The new TAG Heuer Carrera Astonomer is available in three variants, each housed within a 39mm stainless steel case with brushed and polished surfaces and topped with a domed sapphire crystal
- The bottom half of the dial plays host to a moonphase display at 6 o’clock, with a rotating disc with a double-sided arrow at its centre and the seven lunar stages written on the periphery, indicated via the arrow. The lunar stages are also visually illustrated on the top half, while between these is a 29.5-day scale that tracks the precise position of the moon
- TAG Heuer has released one non-limited and two limited-edition models; the silver dial and black flange version is non-limited, while the one with rose gold details is limited to 500 examples and the silver dial with turquoise Super-LumiNova accents and a grey flange is limited to 100 examples
- It’s powered by the calibre 7, an automatic movement based on the Sellita SW385-1, which has a power reserve of 56 hours
Price: $7050AUD (steel/black); $6750AUD (steel/turquoise); $10,750AUD (steel/rose gold)
Availability: non-limited (steel/black); 100 examples (steel/turquoise); 500 examples (steel/rose gold)
Model: Carrera Astronomer (ref. WBX2110.BA0044 [steel/black]; WBX2112.FC6615 [steel/turquoise]; WBX2111.BD0002 [steel/rose gold])
Case size: 39mm
Movement: calibre 7 (automatic)
Water resistance: 10ATM
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, phases of the moon
Power reserve: 56 hours
Explore Carrera Astonomer via TAG Heuer.
Oris gets down to business with the Big Crown Calibre 113
- Oris is business at the front and party, well…also at the front with the Big Crown Calibre 113, a colourful timepiece equipped with a business calendar
- Housed within a pared-back 43mm stainless steel case with a domed sapphire crystal, the Big Crown Calibre 113 is fitted with a grained mint green dial with hot pink subdials at 3 and 9 o’clock
- Around the perimeter is a 52-week calendar, indicated with a pink-tipped arrow; a day apeture at 12 o’clock; date at 6 o’clock; small seconds at 9 o’clock; and a power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock
- It’s powered by the namesake calibre 113, an in-house hand-wound movement with an impressive 240-hour (10-day) power reserve
Price: $8100USD
Model: Big Crown Calibre 113 (ref. 01 113 7800 4057-07 8 21 06)
Case size: 43mm
Movement: calibre 113 (manually wound)
Water resistance: 5ATM
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, business calendar, power reserve indicator, date, day, stop seconds
Power reserve: 240 hours (10 days)
Explore Big Crown Calibre 113 via Oris.
Seiko raises a glass to Australasia with a hyperlocal Cocktail Time
- Japanese watch brand Seiko has introduced a new Presage Cocktail Time into its lineup, with The Conte a limited-edition timepiece inspired by the Negroni
- Created in collaboration with Sydney cocktail bar The Conte, the timepiece sees a textured deep red dial encased in a 40.5mm rose gold-toned case, fitted on a brown leather strap with a folding clasp
- It’s powered by the calibre 4R35, an automatic movement with a 41-hour power reserve
Price: $950AUD
Availability: 1000 examples
Model: Presage Cocktail Time ‘The Conte’ (ref. SRPL96J)
Case size: 40.5mm
Movement: 4R35 (automatic)
Water resistance: 5ATM
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, date
Power reserve: 41 hours
Explore Presage Cocktail Time ‘The Conte’ (SRPL96J) via Seiko.
Fears releases the elegant Brunswick 38 Charcoal Rose
- British watch brand Fears has released a new version of its 38mm Brunswick timepiece
- The newcomer sees the 38mm stainless steel cushion case (with its distinctive onion crown) play host to a rough grained charcoal dial that has a rose gold peripheral minute track and small seconds counter, with matching rose gold-toned hour and minute hands
- It’s powered by the hand-wound La Joux-Perret D100, which has a power reserve of 50 hours
Price: $5500AUD (leather strap); $5800AUD (steel bracelet)
Model: Brunswick 38 Charcoal Rose
Case size: 38mm
Movement: La Joux-Perret D100 (manually wound)
Water resistance: 10ATM
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds
Power reserve: 50 hours
Explore Brunswick 38 Charcoal Rose via Fears.
Gérald Genta sounds off with a new minute repeater
- Gérald Genta’s signature complication, the minute repeater, has made a reappearance in a new squircle (square circle) case that stays true to the legendary watch designer’s idiosyncratic style
- Oozing old-school cool, the Gérald Genta Minute Repeater is housed within a 40mm yellow gold case with double gadroons and features a polished black onyx dial with a white railroad minutes track lining the perimeter
- It’s powered by a hand-wound movement by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton which is based on the calibre GG-002 and has an 80-hour power reserve
Price: $320,000CHF
Availability: 10 examples per year
Model: Minute Repeater (ref. EBFE01A1)
Case size: 40mm
Movement: GG-002 (manually wound)
Water resistance: N/A
Functions: hours, minutes, minute repeater
Power reserve: 80 hours
Berneron goes in a new direction for its second collection with the Quantième Annuel
- Microbrand Berneron made a name for itself with the release of the asymmetrical Mirage
- Now, the brand has released its second collection, the Quantième Annuel which takes a more traditional approach
- Featuring a proprietary movement that makes use of cross architecture, it prioritises legibility though vertical timekeeping (including a jumping hour display) and horizontal calendar indications
- There’s a silver and black dial variant, each housed within a 38mm platinum case reinforced with steel protection
Price: $140,000CHF
Availability: examples
Model:
Case size: mm
Movement: 595 (manually wound)
Water resistance: 3ATM
Functions: jumping hours, minutes, small seconds, day of the week, retrograde date, month
Power reserve: 100 hours
Explore Quantième Annuel via Berneron.
Furlan Marri gives its retro Disco Volante an onyx dial
- Released last year, the Disco Volante blends Art Deco and futuristic space age aesthetics, drawing inspiration from retro timepieces by the likes of Universal Genève and Audemars Piguet
- The timepiece is defined by its ‘flying saucer’ case, a completely round, lugless design with an oversized stepped bezel and integrated crown
- Now, the microbrand has added a new dial into the mix, with the 38mm stainless steel timepiece now playing host to a smooth black onyx crystal topped with baguette-cut lab grown diamond hour markers
- It’s powered by the same calibre Peseux 7001, a hand-wound movement with a 42-hour power reserve
Price: $350CHF
Model: Disco Onyx Diamonds
Case size: 38mm
Movement: Peseux 7001 (manually wound)
Water resistance: 5ATM
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds
Power reserve: 42 hours
Explore Disco Onyx Diamonds via Furlan Marri.
Vianney Halter and Massena Lab make what’s old new again
- Independent watchmaker Vianney Halter has teamed up with Massena Lab to release the Old Soul, a timepiece powered by a new-old-stock Minerva 17’22 manually wound movement
- The Vianney Halter x Massena Lab Old Soul takes shape in the former’s signature steampunk style, with the 42mm stainless steel case playing host to a dial with a regulator display, wherein the hours, minutes, and seconds are shown on different axes
- The hours are displayed on a subdial at 3 o’clock, while the seconds subdial sits opposite at 9 o’clock and the minutes are indicated on the periphery, with a blue rhombus marker pointing to a railroad track
Price: $POA
Availability: 47 examples
Model: Old Soul
Case size: 42mm
Movement: Minerva 17’22 (manually wound)
Water resistance: 3ATM
Functions: regulator hours, mystery minutes, small seconds
Power reserve: 36 hours
Explore Old Soul via Massena Lab.
Dennison offers a veritable two-in-one deal with the ALD Dual Time
- Dennison taps into the romantic side of dual time watches, with a retro-inspired travel watch
- The Dennison ALD Dual Time sees the microbrand’s signature Emmanuel Gueit-designed case widened by two millimetres (the 37mm length is retailed) to accomodate a split dial configuration, with two hour and minutes setups, each powered by its own quartz movement
- The ALD Dual Time comes in both split dual stone dials and monochromatic stone dials with a sunbrushed subdial
Price: approx. $1374AUD
Model: ALD Dual Time
Case size: 35.6mm x 37mm
Movement: quartz
Water resistance: 3ATM
Functions: hours, minutes, dual time
Power reserve: N/A
Explore ALD Dual Time via Dennison.
Zenith releases an unexpected collaboration with USM Modular Furniture
- Zenith has teamed up with Swiss modular furniture maker USM on a quartet of funky Defy models that pay homage to the spirit of the 1960s — namely, the launch of the USM Haller modular system (1965) and the debut of ZENITH’s revolutionary El Primero chronograph (1969)
- The angular 1969 Zenith Defy served as the base of the collaboration, with the 14-sided bezel echoing the signature design language of USM
- The collaborative Zenith Defy Chronograph USM comes in a 37.3mm stainless steel case and is powered by the El Primero 400, making the first time the Defy has been produced as a chronograph
- The four colours—blue, golden yellow, green, and orange—are inspired by the colours used by the modular furniture maker, with each limited-edition timepiece coming shipped in a USM cabinet
Price: $10,900CHF
Availability: 60 examples each
Model: Defy Chronograph USM
Case size: 37.3mm
Movement: El Primero 400 (automatic)
Water resistance: 10ATM
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph, 12-hour counter, 30-minute counter, date
Power reserve: 50 hours
Explore the Defy Chronograph USM via Zenith.
Exaequo is back with another Dali-esque melting watch
- Exaequo has launched the Revolve, a sharp follow up to its debut Classic Melting Watch
- The Revolve is a surrealist reinterpretation of an archival sketch shaped like lips and takes shape in a 33mm x 51.2mm stainless steel (untreated or yellow gold plated) case the houses an asymmetrical dial with curved Roman numerals
- It’s powered by a quartz movement, the Ronda 762-AJG3
Price: $700CHF
Model: Revolve
Case size: 33mm x 51.2mm
Movement: Ronda 762-AJG3 (quartz)
Water resistance: 3ATM
Functions: hours, minutes
Power reserve: N/A
The M.A.D.Editions x Yinka Ilori MBE collab is for those who don’t need their dials to tell the time
- Max Büsser has linked up with British-Nigerian multidisciplinary artist and designer Yinka Ilori MBE to create the M.A.D.1S ‘Grow Your Dreams’
- M.A.D.Editions is an MB&F side project which releases creative, experimental timepieces at accessible price points in limited editions
- The M.A.D.1S ‘Grow Your Dreams’ is a vibrant three-piece collaboration that features a statement rotor crafted from titanium, liquid ceramic bezel, and an aluminium baseplate with textural waves which is visible around the periphery of the dial
- The time (hours only!) can be found on the caseband, with a lumed marker at 6 o’clock pointing to a rotating hours cylinder
- It’s housed within a 42mm stainless steel case and powered by a La Joux-Perret G101 automatic movement
Price: $3200CHF
Availability: 400 examples each
Model: M.A.D.1S ‘Grow Your Dreams’
Case size: 42mm
Movement: La Joux-Perret G101 (automatic)
Water resistance: 3ATM
Functions: hours
Power reserve: 68 hours
Explore M.A.D.1S ‘Grow Your Dreams’ via MB&F.
Piaget shows off its ultra-thin prowess with a duo of Altiplanos
- Piaget expands on its rich legacy of ultra-thin watchmaking with two new Altiplano timepieces, both in gold and khaki green
- The Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon updates last year’s 150th anniversary release with a 41.5mm cobalt alloy case (measuring just 2mm thick) and khaki green dial with yellow gold details, with the timepiece maintaining its ultra-thin proportions by combining the case and movement into a single form, with the caseback acting as the movement’s mainplate
- The AUC Tourbillon incorporates a sapphire glass caseback for the first time, allowing the calibre 970P-UC to be viewed
- Released alongside the tourbillon is the Altiplano 910P, which arrives in a 41mm yellow gold case (4.3mm thick) and features a vivid khaki green dial
- The Altiplano 910P sees the dial incorporated into the movement, with bridges finished in khaki green and the peripheral rotor rendered in slate grey
Price: $POA
Model: Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon (ref. G0A50530); Altiplano 910P (ref. G0A50126)
Case size: 41.5mm (Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon); 41mm (Altiplano 910P)
Movement: 970P-UC (Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon; manually wound); 910P (Altiplano 910P; automatic)
Water resistance: 2ATM (both)
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds (Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon); hours, minutes (Altiplano 910P)
Power reserve: 35 hours (Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon); 48 hours (Altiplano 910P)
Explore the Altiplano line via Piaget.
The Beda’a plays with geometric forms with the Blue Angles
- Beda’a has released a new version of its Angles timepiece, with the contemporary collection defined by its octagonal case shape
- Founded in Qatar and manufactured in Switzerland, Beda’a takes its design cues from Arabian architecture and art
- The newcomer features a deep blue dial surrounded by a 37mm octagonal stainless steel case and is powered by a quartz movement
Price: $2400QAR (approx. $1090AUD)
Model: Blue Angles (ref. BQA0524-37)
Case size: 37mm
Movement: Ronda 1062.1 (quartz)
Water resistance: 3ATM
Functions: hours, minutes
Power reserve: N/A
Explore the Blue Angles via Beda’a.
Arnold & Son makes being a deadbeat look elegant with new DSTB 42 duo
- British watch brand Arnold & Son has released a duo of new DSTB 42 timepieces
- At the heart of the DSTB 42 is the calibre A&S6203, an in-house mechanical movement with a seconds function that ‘ticks’ like a quartz movement; known as a true-beat or dead-beat seconds function
- The new releases pair a mint green dial with a rose gold case and an ascot blue dial with a platinum case; both cases are 42mm with a grained dial finish
- The grained dials play host to a small hours and minutes dial in white opal at 4 to 5 o’clock, while the upper left quadrant shows off the three-dimensional gold bridges of the movement and anchor-shaped escapement counterweight which moves in time with the calibre and controls the movement of the long true-beat seconds hand
Price: $42,700CHF (rose gold with green dial); $54,600CHF (platinum with blue dial)
Availability: 18 examples each
Model: DSTB 42 (ref. 1ATCR.F01A.C1242A [green dial]; 1ATCX.U01A.C0263X [blue dial])
Case size: 42mm
Movement: A&S6203 (automatic)
Water resistance: 3ATM
Functions: hours, minutes, true-beat seconds
Power reserve: 55 hours
Explore DSTB 42 via Arnold & Son.
TAOS melds horology and haute couture with new Gala and Tuxedo timepieces
- Independent watch brand TAOS is dedicated to celebrating métiers d’art in watchmaking
- The Gala timepiece combines grand feu enamelling, gemsetting, sculpted mother-of-pearl, engraving, and featherwork to create a dial that draws from the intricacy of ball gowns
- The satin fabric of the Tuxedo employs four layers of silver leaf, combined with five firings of enamelling in midnight blue, black, and silver to create an effect reminiscent of woven material
- Both timepieces are powered by the calibre VOP318, with each uniquely decorated with over 150 hours of hand-engraving
Price: $150,000CHF (Gala); $140,000CHF (Tuexedo)
Availability: one example each
Model: Gala; Tuxedo
Case size: 38mmmm
Movement: VOP318 (automatic)
Water resistance: 3ATM
Functions: hours, minutes
Power reserve: 72 hours
Explore Gala and Tuxedo via TAOS.
Want to know what’s ticking in the watch world? Find all our watch news coverage here.
Words by Theo Rosen and Henry Blake
