A good watch might be timeless, but there are new ones dropping all the time. With the watch industry ticking by at a rapid pace, it can be difficult to keep abreast of all the new and noteworthy releases. Welcome back to In The Loupe, our monthly watch news series covering all the latest and greatest (and some frankly bizarre) watch releases from renowned Swiss and other luxury watch brands, as well as select independent watchmakers and microbrands. We also delve into newsworthy watch industry updates and developments.
It’s hard to believe it’s May 2025 already. While Watches & Wonders last month saw the likes of Cartier, Rolex, Vacheron Constantin, and Zenith release the lion’s share of their novelties, there’s no shortage of new watch releases on the market. Already, we’ve got a new release from Zenith, alongside a cool collaboration between indie watchmaker Raúl Pagès and design studio Massena LAB.
May 2025 watch news
To keep your mind—and movements—well serviced, we’ve rounded up the new watch releases and industry news to know in May 2025.
Farer introduces the Lissom dress watch, inspired by historic botanists
- Proving colour and reductionist design needn’t be mutually exclusive, British watch brand Farer has introduced the new Lissom dress watch
- Housed within a 38mm stainless steel case, the manually wound (powered by the La Joux-Perret D100) timepiece features an elegant satin-finished dial with a recessed small seconds subdial in a complementary colour at 6 o’clock
- Each dial has Arabic numerals in Lumicast and contemporary sword-shaped hands
- There are five variants of the Farer Lissom, each named after a famous British botanists: Agnes Arber (raspberry pink and purple), Isaac Bayley Balfour (white and blue), George Forrest (teal and orange), John Lindley (deep purple and pale blue), and Daniel Solander (black on black)
Price: $1295USD
Model: Lissom
Case size: 38mm
Movement: La Joux-Perret D100 (automatic)
Water resistance: 5ATM
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds
Power reserve: 50 hours
Blancpain expands its Ladybird Colours lineup with a duo of Royal Purple releases
- Blancpain has added two new Royal Purple timepieces its vibrant Ladybird Colours range
- The timepieces come in either white or rose gold and are embellished with diamonds on the case and bezel
- The nacre perlée (mother-of-pearl) dial features a moonphase aperture at 6 o’clock, with Roman numerals in an alluring shade of lilac
- The timepiece is powered by the calibre 1163L, an automatic movement with a four-day power reserve, and presented on a purple alligator leather strap
Price: $58,400AUD
Model: Ladybird Colours (ref. 3662D-1954-55; 3662E-2954-55)
Case size: 34.9mm
Movement: 1163L (automatic)
Water resistance: 3ATM
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, moon phase
Power reserve: 96 hours (four days)
Explore the Ladybird Colours via Blancpain.
Tudor releases the Pelagos FXD Chrono Pink ‘Giro d’Italia’
- Tudor continues its support of semi-obscure cycling events with the Pelagos FXD Chrono Pink ‘Giro d’Italia’, which is limited to 300 examples
- The second timepiece released in collaboration with the annual cycling event, the timepiece is inspired by the Maglia Rosa — the custom pink jersey awarded to race leaders
- Housed within a 43mm carbon composite case, the newcomer is topped with a fixed bezel with a precision 60-minute scale, with the chronograph pushers and titanium crown on the side of the case
- The matte black dial plays host to a bicompax subdial layout framed with pink rings, block hour markers, a date window at 6 o’clock, and Tudor’s classic snowflake hands in white
- It’s powered by the Tudor MT5813, an automatic movement based on the Breitling B01
Price: $5600USD
Availability: 300 examples
Model: Pelagos FXD Chrono Pink ‘Giro d’Italia’
Case size: 43mm
Movement: Tudor MT5813 (automatic)
Water resistance: 10ATM
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronograph
Power reserve: 70 hours
Explore the Pelagos FXD Chrono Pink ‘Giro d’Italia’ via Tudor.
Dennison and Collectability team up to create a stunning vintage-style dress watch
- Founded in 1874 by Aaron Lufkin Dennison, Dennison was an American case maker known for producing watch cases for the likes of Rolex, Omega, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and Zenith
- Dennison dropped off the map before reappearing six months ago, producing stone dial watches housed within the ALD case (named for the brand’s founder) conceived by legendary watch designer Emmanual Gueit (also responsible for the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore)
- Now, Dennison has teamed up with Collectability, the brand founded by John Reardon—Patek Philippe expert and the former Head of Watches at Christie’s—which aims to become the ultimate destination for vintage and pre-owned Patek Philippe watches
- Naturally, the resultant collaboration exudes design-led vintage charm. It’s housed in the same Emmanual Gueit-designed ALD case and sees Dennison present a sector dial layout for the first time, with a two-tone blue sunray dial divided by a metal ring running around the perimeter of the dial
- The 37mm x 33.65mm case is constructed from stainless steel and available untreated or with a gold PVD coating (with the aforementioned metal ring and hour and minute hands matching the case metal)
- Branding has been removed from the dial, resulting in a seamless—and timeless—aesthetic
Price: €608
Model: Dennison + Collectability
Case size: 37mm x 33.65mm
Movement: Ronda Quartz 1062
Water resistance: 3ATM
Functions: hours, minutes
Power reserve: N/A
Explore the Dennison + Collectability via Dennison.
Tudor celebrates its connection to motorsport with the Black Bay Chrono Carbon 25
- The Tudor Black Bay Chrono Carbon 25 features design elements inspired by the Visa Cash App Racing Bulls Formula One Team
- A 42mm lightweight carbon fibre case surrounds a glossy domed ‘racing white’ dial that features the team colours alongside contrasting carbon fibre subdials arranged in a bicompax layout
- The carbon fibre construction continues onto the bezel and the end-links of the strap, while the pushers are crafted from titanium
- The timepiece is limited to 2025 examples, with each example numbered on the titanium caseback
Price: $10,970AUD
Model: Black Bay Chrono Carbon 25 (ref. m79377kn-0001)
Case size: 42mm
Movement: MT5813 (automatic)
Water resistance: 20ATM
Functions: hours, minutes, date, small seconds, chronograph
Power reserve: 70 hours
Explore the Black Bay Chrono Carbon via Tudor.
Massena LAB releases third collaboration with Raúl Pagès
- Founded by William Massena, design studio Massena LAB has built its brand on collaborating with independent watchmakers around the world. Last year, the brand collaborated with indie watchmaker Raúl Pagès on the Magraph and Absinthe
- Now, the duo have come together for the third time to create the Noctograph, which fuses Pagès’ minimalist style with watch dials from the 1930s to 1950s that Massena cited as inspiration
- Housed within a 38.5mm stainless steel case with a very Calatrava-esque aesthetic, the dark blue dial is vertically brushed and topped with a radially brushed rhodium-plated chapter ring, while a sunken small seconds subdial sits at 6 o’clock
- It’s powered by the calibre M660, a manually wound movement based on a movement made by AMT Manufacture, Sellita’s high-end outfit. It’s decorated with Côtes de Genève finishing as well as hand-chamfered plates and bridges
Price: $8875USD
Model: Noctograph
Case size: 38.5mm
Movement: M660 (manually wound)
Water resistance: 5ATM
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds
Power reserve: 60 hours
Explore the Noctograph via Massena LAB.
Choupette is the face of Hublot’s latest campaign
Meow. Late designer Karl Lagerfeld’s cat Choupette hasn’t let the passing of her human papa stop her from hustling. A fashion icon in her own right, the feline is the new face of Hublot’s ‘Own It’ campaign, celebrating the 20th anniversary of the Swiss watch brand’s Big Bang collection. Despite not possessing wrists—or the ability to tell the time—the campaign sees Choupette model the Big Bang 20th Anniversary Red Magic in her new role, cementing her as one of the hardest working felines in fashion.
“The Big Bang represents a revolution in watchmaking, a perfect union of tradition and modernity,” says Hublot CEO Julien Tornare. “While remaining rooted in the values of luxury watchmaking, such as artisanal quality and attention to detail, Hublot has managed to position the Big Bang as a disruptor within an industry that has traditionally seen little design innovation. This is what sets us apart. With our new campaign, we want to celebrate the courage to break the mold and experiment without fear of going beyond.”
See Choupette in Hublot’s ‘Own It’ campaign here.
Zenith releases the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar in rose gold
- The Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar made its debut last year. Inspired by an El Primero prototype from over half a century ago known as the ‘A386’, the timepiece was released in steel and housed a complete calendar within Zenith’s signature El Primero three register chronograph layout
- The tricompax layout sees day of the week and month indications positioned symmetrically above the subdials at 11 o’clock and 2 o’clock, the date housed in the traditional El Primero position between 4 and 5 o’clock, and the moonphase indicator integrated into the chronograph minute register at 6 o’clock
- Now, Zenith has released the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar in rose gold, complemented by a sleek black dial
- It’s powered by the El Primero 3610 calibre, a modern variant of Zenith’s seminal high-frequency El Primero movement, which allows for a 1/10th of a second function
Price: $40,700AUD
Model: Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar (ref. 18.3400.3610/21.C911)
Case size: 38mm
Movement: El Primero 3610 (automatic)
Water resistance: ATM
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronograph, complete calendar (day, date and month), moonphase indicator
Power reserve: 60 hours
Explore the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar via Zenith.
H. Moser & Cie releases an Endeavour Tourbillon Concept with a stunning enamel dial
- The H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Concept line is known for pairing minimalist—but never boring!—dials with tourbillons
- Devoid of hour and minute markers, the reductionist approach allows the dial to shine and provides the ideal canvas for métiers d’art
- Here, the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Turquoise Enamel sees a 40mm rose gold case house a white gold base plate which is hammered before several layers of enamel are applied, with three different pigments required to produce the fumé (gradient) effect
- It’s powered by the HMC 805, an automatic movement with a 72-hour power reserve
Price: $75,000CHF
Model: Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Turquoise Enamel (ref. 1805-0400)
Case size: 40mm
Movement: HMC 805 (automatic)
Water resistance: 3ATM
Functions: hours, minutes
Power reserve: 72 hours
Explore the Tourbillon Concept Turquoise Enamel via H. Moser & Cie.
Panerai unveils the Submersible Chrono Marina Militare Experience Edition PAM01699
- Panerai first launched its ‘Experiences Program’ in 2019, which is dedicated to providing “owners with access to once-in-a-lifetime opportunities where they can connect deeply with Panerai’s essence, embarking on three different types of experiences, each one dedicated to the core value of the brand: adventure, military and Italianity.” For the record, “Italinity” is their word, not ours
- The Panerai Submersible Chrono Marina Militare Experience Edition PAM01699 is inspired by the Aviazione Navale (Italian Navy) and is housed within a hefty 47mm titanium case topped with a unidirectional titanium bezel with a matte black ceramic insert
- The green grained dial plays host to subdials at 3 and 9 o’clock, with the timepiece housing a standard chronograph as well as a countdown function
- Designed for deep sea exploration, it has 500 metres of water resistance and a 72-hour power reserve thanks to the use of two spring barrels in the movement
- Limited to 35 examples, the timepiece is tied to an experience at the Naval Air Station in Puglia, Italy which sees participants step into the role of a military officer for three days
Price: $60,800USD
Model: Submersible Chrono Marina Militare Experience Edition PAM01699
Case size: 47mm
Movement: P.9100/R (automatic)
Water resistance: 50ATM
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph, chronograph minute counter
Power reserve: 72 hours
Explore the Submersible Chrono Marina Militare Experience Edition PAM01699 via Panerai.
Words by Theo Rosen & T. Angel
