A homage to the essentialist approach of ‘90s minimalism, Tod’s director Walter Chiapponi let craftsmanship take centre stage for Tod’s SS23.
Set within an old tyre factory on the outskirts of Milan, two of the most recognisable faces of the ‘90s, Carla Bruni and Naomi Campbell, opened and closed the show. Epitomising the lived-in confidence of the collection, Bruni opened the show in an all-camel pant-and-shirt set with a matching overcoat and to-handle bag, paired with moccasins; a Tod’s staple. The neutral hue set the tone for the rest of the collection, which was defined by natural shades of powder pink, beige, maroon, brown, and burnt orange; recalling the colours of the Italian hearth during summer.
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Manipulating masculine dress codes and revising them for womenswear, Tod’s SS23 was full of subtly unexpected styling. A boxy men’s style jacket is worn over a slip dress cut from leather, while elsewhere leather pants are styled with a longline shirt and knitted shirtdresses take on a body-conscious approach with ruched detailing. The show also introduced the concept of the turned-down bustier, serving to accentuate the waistline in a louche, irreverent way.
Words by Arabella Johnson
