Continuing its exploration into the archives, Breitling is celebrating the 70th anniversary of the Navitimer. The Swiss watch manufacturer’s first pilot watch, the Breitling Navitimer gets a 21st-century makeover, retaining the classic features that made it an icon while making a few thoughtful contemporary additions.
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Invented in 1952 by Willy Breitling, the Navitimer (a portmanteau of ‘navigation’ and ‘timer’) was conceived with the intention of simplifying a pilot’s calculations while in the air. A wrist-worn chronograph with a circular slide rule around the bezel, the Breitling Navitimer was a hit, becoming the official timepiece for the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA) just two years later. The association’s winged logo was emblazoned above the Breitling logo at 12 o’clock, becoming a distinctive feature of the Navitimer. Cementing the Navitimer’s status as an icon was its adoption by celebrities of the day like Serge Gainsbourg, Jim Clark, and Miles Davis, proving the watch was not only a functional tool, but also exuded style.
“We don’t throw the term ‘icon’ around lightly,” said Georges Kern, CEO of Breitling. “The Navitimer is one of the most recognizable watches ever made. It’s on collectors’ lists of the greatest watches of all time. What began as a tool for pilots has gone on to mean something profound to every single person who has had this timepiece along on their personal journey.”
The new Breitling Navitimers preserve the essence of the Navitimer design code, incorporating signature elements like the circular slide rule, baton indexes, trio of chronograph counters, and notched bezel for easy grip. However, Breitling hasn’t rested on its laurels, with the reissued Breitling Navitimer a distinctly contemporary timepiece.
The retromod Navitimers are fitted with a flattened side rule and domed crystal to create the illusion of a slimmer profile, while alternating polished and brushed finishes provide them with an elegant yet understated appeal. Visible through the caseback, each Navitimer is kept running with the COSC-ceritifed Breitling Manufacture Calibre 01, which provides 70 hours of power reserve and allows the wearer to change the date – found at 6 o’clock – at any time.
The new Breitling Navitimers come in 41, 43, and 46mm case sizes (the original was available in 40mm), two case materials of stainless steel or 18k red gold, and are fitted on either a semi-shiny alligator strap or seven-row metal bracelet. A slew of dial colours include dark blue, silver, mint green, black, copper, ice blue, emerald green, and white, with subdials in either black or white (the black panda dial is one to watch).
As for the finishing touch? The AOPA wings are restored to their rightful place above the Breitling logo at 12 o’clock, reasserting the Navitimer’s continued status as one of the most iconic pilot’s watches, both then and now.
Words by John Deckard
